Tide-topography coupling is important for understanding surface-tide energy loss, the intermittency of internal tides, and the cascade of internal-tide energy from large to small scales. Although tide-topography coupling has been observed and modeled for 50 years, the identification of surface and internal tides over arbitrary topography has not been standardized....
The energy levels of internal waves observed during the
Arctic Internal Wave Experiment (AIWEX), conducted from the
drifting pack ice in the Beaufort Sea, increased as the speed of
the ice drift increased. The possibility of these waves being
generated by moving pack ice with a corrugated under-side is
explored...
Mathematicians have been concerned with population growth
and movement since the days of Leonhard Euler and Thomas Malthus.
Chapter i of this paper sketches the history of the development of the
modern population theory.
In Chapter II, a partial differential equation is derived which
governs the growth and movement of...
This thesis presents an examination of the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer
under conditions of significant sediment response. Using both field observations and
simple models, the response of the bottom boundary layer to random waves is shown to
have a complex behavior. First, the linearized wave bottom boundary layer governing...
Shear waves, which are instabilities of the longshore current, are of interest
to nearshore research because they can act as a cross-shore mixing mechanism
for the current. The best method to study them is in a controlled environment,
such as circular wave tank where continuous longshore currents can be
generated....
The present thesis is a report of investigations on a model for computing the water flow in the wave tank of the OSU Wave Laboratory. A wave board, established at one end of the 100 m long, 4 m wide and 6 m deep wave tank, produces water waves by...
We investigate, theoretically and experimentally, the problem of modeling depth-integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves approaching from an arbitrary angle. An approximate theoretical model is developed, which captures the important effect of advection in the alongshore dynamics, and shows that a nondimensional parameter Re[subscript]s...
Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In...