Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
This study investigates wind-driven circulation in the vicinity of the Heceta Bank complex along the Oregon shelf. Numerical experiments forced with steady winds (0.1 Pa) are conducted; upwelling and downwelling cases are compared. The asymmetric bank bathymetry is the only configurational difference from the symmetric bank runs analyzed in Part...
This study examines how coastal banks influence wind-driven circulation along stratified continental shelves. Numerical experiments are conducted for idealized symmetric banks; the standard bank (200 km long and 50 km wide) has dimensions similar to the Heceta Bank complex along the Oregon shelf. Model runs are forced with 10 days...
Current projections of the oceanic response to anthropogenic climate forcings are uncertain. Two key sources of these uncertainties are (1) structural errors in current Earth system models and (2) imperfect knowledge of model parameters. Ocean tracer observations have the potential to reduce these uncertainties. Previous studies typically consider each tracer...
We present the evolution of oceanographic conditions off the western coast of South America between 1996 and 1999, including the cold periods of 1996 and 1998–1999 and the 1997–1998 El Niño, using satellite observations of sea level, winds, sea surface temperature (SST), and chlorophyll concentration. Following a period of cold...
We investigate the utility of adding a 365 nm ultraviolet (UV) light source to the ExoMars panoramic camera (PanCam) scheduled for launch in 2013. The modification makes it feasible to monitor rover drill cuttings for aromatic organic molecules and provide constraints on polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) as a function of...
In a recent paper, Sandwell and Agreen [1984; hereafter SA]
presented figures of global seasonal wind speed and sea state
as measured by the GEOS 3 satellite altimeter. Since that
time, Chelton and McCabe [1985; hereafter CM] have found
that problems exist in the algorithms used to retrieve wind
speed...
Time‐dependent, three‐dimensional, upwelling circulation on the continental shelf off the Oregon coast is studied using a primitive equation numerical model. A limited area domain with a high‐resolution curvilinear grid is utilized. The response of the coastal ocean to forcing by observed wind stress and heat flux during the summer 2001...
A three‐dimensional primitive‐equation model for application to the nearshore surf zone has been developed. This model, an extension of the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), predicts the wave‐averaged circulation forced by breaking waves. All of the features of the original POM are retained in the extended model so that applications can...
A data assimilation system (DAS) of the wind‐driven, mesoscale shelf circulation off the Oregon coast is developed. The DAS assimilates low‐pass filtered surface velocity measurements, obtained from land‐based high‐frequency coastal radar arrays, into a primitive equation coastal ocean model using a sequential optimal interpolation scheme. Inhomogeneous and anisotropic estimates of...