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Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach

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dc.creator Ruggiero, Peter
dc.creator Holman, Robert A.
dc.creator Beach, R. A.
dc.date.accessioned 2010-05-10T20:58:01Z
dc.date.available 2010-05-10T20:58:01Z
dc.date.issued 2004
dc.identifier.citation Beach, R. A., Holman, R. A., Ruggiero, P., Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach (2004), J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025. en
dc.identifier.uri http://hdl.handle.net/1957/15761
dc.description copyrighted by American Geophysical Union en
dc.description.abstract Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an ƒ¯⁴ roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches. en
dc.language.iso en_US en
dc.publisher American Geophysical Union en
dc.relation.ispartofseries Journal of Geophysical Research en
dc.relation.ispartofseries Vol. 109 (2004) en
dc.title Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach en
dc.type Article en
dc.identifier.doi 10.1029/2003JC002160

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