Holman, R. A.; Bowen, A. J. (Bowen, A. J., and Holman, R. A. (1982), Bars, bumps, and holes: models for the generation of complex beach topography. J. Geophys. Res., 87, C1., 1982)
In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, th ...