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Prediction of breaker type and measurement of surf-bores on an ocean beach

Creator:

Gaughan, Michael Kenneth

Resource Type:

Dissertation

Full Text:

terms of order s2 by the function (Biesel, l952) (6) k sinh(kh) [cosh(kh + kz.) sin(t - kx)4(x,z,t
Breaking waves : a review of theory and measurements

Creator:

Gaughan, Michael Kenneth

Abstract:

Theoretical breaking criteria for progressive surface gravity waves are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these breaking criteria. The measurements of Komar and Simmons are presented here for the first time. Only three theoretical breaking criteria have been...

Resource Type:

Masters Thesis

Full Text:

= o for z = -h L N = -f--- for z = z + A(n)Sinh((h+z))Cosax u-c n=1 27n(i- x) 5. Biesel (1952) V
Breaking waves : a review of theory and measurements

Creator:

Gaughan, Michael Kenneth, Komar, Paul D., 1939-, and Nath, John H.

Abstract:

Theoretical b:::-eaking criteria for progressive surface gravity waves are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these breaking criteria. The measurements of Komar and Simmons are presented here for the first time. Only three theoretical breaking criteria have been...

Resource Type:

Technical Report

Full Text:

Bernoulli equation on the free surface: 3 - - 0 = - z) T ab le 2 -1 . N on lin ea r w at er