An alternative metric for assessing nearshore hydrodynamic impact due to Wave Energy Converter (WEC) arrays is presented that is based on the modeled changes in alongshore radiation stress gradients in the lee of the array. The metric is developed using a previously observed relationship between measured radiation stresses and alongshore...
Models for surface gravity wave propagation in the presence of currents often assume the current field to be quasi-stationary, which implies that the absolute wave frequency is time invariant. However, in the presence of unsteady currents or time-varying water depth, linear wave theory predicts a time variation of the absolute...
We review several approaches that have been used to estimate ocean surface gravity wavenumbers from wave-resolving remotely sensed image sequences. Two fundamentally different approaches that utilize these data exist. A power spectral density approach identifies wavenumbers where image intensity variance is maximized. Alternatively, a cross-spectral correlation approach identifies wavenumbers where...
This article was originally published online and in print with an incorrect version of Fig. 1. AIP apologizes for this error. All online versions of the article have been corrected.
A laboratory experiment involving rip currents generated on a barred beach with periodic rip channels indicates that rip currents contain energetic low-frequency oscillations in the presence of steady wave forcing. An analytic model for the time-averaged flow in a rip current is presented and its linear stability characteristics are investigated...
The optical intensity signals from surf zone waves in a laboratory flume are analyzed using several different phase‐averaging techniques, and a methodology is developed for estimating wave roller lengths and local wave dissipation. The intensity signals (i.e., phase‐averaged intensity profiles) of individual breaking waves are compared with the wave profiles...
In this study, we use a time domain numerical model based on the fully nonlinear extended Boussinesq equations [Wei et al., 1995] to investigate surface wave transformation and breaking-induced nearshore circulation. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled by introducing an eddy viscosity term into the momentum equations,...
This project was carried out collaboratively by Oregon State University (OSU) and the Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries (DOGAMI) and involved baseline observations and
modeling at the proposed wave energy conversion (WEC) array site near Reedsport, OR. In particular, observations and predictions of the wave conditions at the...
This project was carried out collaboratively by Oregon State University (OSU) and the Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries (DOGAMI) and involved baseline observations and
modeling at the proposed wave energy conversion (WEC) array site near Reedsport, OR. In particular, observations and predictions of the wave conditions at the...
The time and space variability of wave transformation through a tidal inlet is investigated with radar remote sensing. The frequency of wave breaking and the net wave breaking dissipation at high spatial resolution is estimated using image sequences acquired with a land-based X-band marine radar. Using the radar intensity data,...