A model is presented for the horizontal and vertical diffusion of sand tracer particles by waves and is verified using a reanalysis of the experiments of Miller and Komar (1979, ). In the model, sand particles take random jumps at a rate associated with the wave period but also can...
A new method is introduced for incorporating bathymetric uncertainty into predictions of nearshore and river flows (i.e., unstratified flows primarily forced by pressure and radiation stress gradients). The method involves the use of the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) as a parameter estimation scheme, where the parameter to be estimated is...
We investigate, theoretically and experimentally, the problem of modeling depth-integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves approaching from an arbitrary angle. An approximate theoretical model is developed, which captures the important effect of advection in the alongshore dynamics, and shows that a nondimensional parameter Re[subscript]s...