A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations...
Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique
Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003-
0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
Synchronous runup records were collected from 14 locations spaced irregularly over a 7 km stretch of
a low-slope beach. The significant runup height, herein defined as the significant vertical excursion of
water level at the shoreline, was typically 2 m, 60% of the incident significant wave height at the
breakpoint....