Index Catalog // ScholarsArchive@OSU

Creator:: Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: parameterization; there is little scat- t•. These data then indicate that choosing a single value for

Creator:: Bowen, A. J. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A new class of nearshore waves based on the shear instability of a steady longshore current is discussed. The dynamics depend on the conservation of potential vorticity but with the background vorticity field, traditionally the role of Coriolis in larger scale flows, supplied by the shear structure of the longshore...
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Full Text:: Instabilities of the Mean Longshore Current 1. Theory A. J. BOWEN Department of Oceanography, Dalhousie

Creator:: Combes, Vincent and Matano, Ricardo P.
Abstract:: This article presents the results of a high-resolution (1/12°), two-way nested simulation of the oceanic circulation in the southwestern Atlantic region. A comparison between the model results and extant observations indicates that the nested model has skill in reproducing the best-known aspects of the regional circulation, e.g., the volume transport...
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Full Text:: A two-way nested simulation of the oceanic circulation

Creator:: Serafin, Katherine A. and Ruggiero, Peter
Abstract:: Coastal flood hazard zones and the design of coastal defenses are often devised using the maximum recorded water level or a ‘‘design’’ event such as the 100 year return level, usually projected from observed extremes. Despite technological advances driving more consistent instrumental records of waves and water levels, the observational...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Simulating extreme total water levels using a time

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
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Full Text:: Infragravity Waves Over a Natural Barred Profile JOURNAL OF

Creator:: Chen, Qin, Dalrymple, Robert A., Kirby, James T., Kennedy, Andrew B., and Haller, Merrick C.
Abstract:: In this study, we use a time domain numerical model based on the fully nonlinear extended Boussinesq equations [Wei et al., 1995] to investigate surface wave transformation and breaking-induced nearshore circulation. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking is modeled by introducing an eddy viscosity term into the momentum equations,...
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Full Text:: Boussinesq modeling of a rip current system JOURNAL OF

Creator:: Leigh-Abbott, Mark R., Coil, John A., Powell, Thomas M., and Richerson, Peter J.
Abstract:: The existence of a distinct coastal zone is confirmed in Lake Tahoe (California-Nevada) by horizontal transects measuring chlorophyll and temperature simultaneously. Creation of the coastal region is influenced by bottom topography, the nature of the surface wind stress, and the difference between physical processes occurring within a Rossby radius of...
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Full Text:: Effects of a Coastal Front on the Distribution of Chlorophyll

Creator:: Chereskin, T. K., Levine, Murray D., Harding, A. J., and Regier, L. A.
Abstract:: Measurements of upper ocean shear made during the Mixed Layer Dynamics Experiment (MILDEX) provide evidence of large horizontal scale motion at near‐inertial frequency. The measurements consist of shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiles. Four large‐scale spatial surveys of 2–4 days duration were made by the R/V Wecoma as a set of...
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Full Text:: little shear. The dominance of a single peak in the FLIP shear spectrum suggests that the large-scale

Creator:: Adams, Katherine A., Barth, John A., and Chan, Francis
Abstract:: In the productive central-Oregon coastal upwelling environment, wind-driven upwelling, tides, and topographic effects vary across the shelf, setting the stage for varied biogeochemical responses to physical drivers. Current, temperature, salinity, and dissolved oxygen (DO) measurements from three moorings deployed during the upwelling seasons of 2009–2011 off the central-Oregon coast are...
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Full Text:: central Oregon Adams, K. A., J. A. Barth, and F. Chan (2013), Temporal variability of near-bottom

Creator:: Plant, Nathaniel G., Freilich, Michael H., and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Several aspects of feedback mechanisms associated with surf zone sandbar response have been characterized using bathymetric surveys, sampled approximately monthly over a 16-year period at the Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility (North Carolina). The measured bathymetry was alongshore averaged and modeled by the superposition of two Gaussian-shaped sandbars...
Resource Type:: Article

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