Analogous to ocean surface waves, waves in the ocean interior also experience steepening, breaking, and dissipation as they approach the coastline. Much less is known about this internal beach. In this work, extensive moored Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler and temperature/salinity data together with optical remote sensing are combined to describe...
In the summer of 2007, a biophysical experiment was conducted to identify physical processes that determine the delivery of invertebrate larvae and juvenile rockfish to rocky intertidal and kelp forest communities in northern Monterey Bay, California. The experiment was sponsored by the Partnership for Interdisciplinary
Studies of Coastal Oceans (PISCO)...
Semidiurnal velocity and density oscillations are examined over the mid- and inner continental shelf near Heceta Bank on the Oregon coast. Measurements from two long-term observation networks with sites on and off the submarine bank reveal that both baroclinic velocities and displacements are dominated by the first mode, with larger...
Shore-based video remote sensing is used to observe and continually monitor nonlinear internal waves
propagating across the inner shelf. Month-long measurements of velocity from bottom-mounted acoustic
Doppler current profilers and temperature from thermistor chains at the 10- and 20-m isobaths are combined
with sea surface imagery from a suite of...
Full Text:
Observations of Nonlinear Internal Waves across the Inner Shelf *,1
SUTARAH. SUANDA, JOHN A. BARTH, ROB A
Shore-based video remote sensing is used to observe and continually monitor nonlinear internal waves
propagating across the inner shelf. Month-long measurements of velocity from bottom-mounted acoustic
Doppler current profilers and temperature from thermistor chains at the 10- and 20-m isobaths are combined
with sea surface imagery from a suite of...
Shore-based video remote sensing is used to observe and continually monitor nonlinear internal waves
propagating across the inner shelf. Month-long measurements of velocity from bottom-mounted acoustic
Doppler current profilers and temperature from thermistor chains at the 10- and 20-m isobaths are combined
with sea surface imagery from a suite of...
In the summer of 2007, physical measurements including velocity from acoustic Doppler current profilers, surface gravity wave heights measured acoustically, and temperature from thermistor chain arrays were collected along- and across- the mid to inner shelf (water depths from 10–60 m) in northern Monterey Bay. The oceanic response to a...
Wave runup is an important physical process that affects nearshore sediment transport, coastal erosion, and flooding. Large and unexpected runup events can also be dangerous to beach goers. Extreme runup statistics are essential parameters used in engineering design of marine structures and in coastal management. Although the study of runup...
This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a high resolution wave forecasting model for the coasts of Washington and Oregon. The purpose of this project was to advance the wave predictive capabilities of the states of Oregon and the southwest part of Washington by including the effects of...
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H. Tuba Özkan-Haller
This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a
Knowledge of wave conditions in nearshore regions supports the development of
ocean wave energy technology by providing wave climatology for device design
considerations, and power output estimates. By modeling wave transformation
over the continental shelf, wave conditions were predicted in nearshore regions
where potential wave energy conversion sites are located....
An operational inner-shelf wave forecasting system was implemented for the Oregon and southwest Washington coast in the U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW). High-resolution wave forecasts are useful for navigational planning, identifying wave energy resources, providing information for site-specific coastal flood models, and having an informed recreational beach user group, among other...
This dissertation focuses on two core aspects of remote sensing: (a) interpretation of the remotely sensed data to identify and characterize sea surface features of interest, and (b) the quantitative analysis of previously characterized features to produce robust estimates of geophysical variables. Specifically, these aspects are addressed in the context...
In the productive central-Oregon coastal upwelling environment, wind-driven upwelling, tides, and topographic effects vary across the shelf, setting the stage for varied biogeochemical responses to physical drivers. Current, temperature, salinity, and dissolved oxygen (DO) measurements from three moorings deployed during the upwelling seasons of 2009–2011 off the central-Oregon coast are...
The use of remote sensing techniques in coastal science and engineering has rapidly increased in the past few decades. This dissertation outlines new remote sensing tools using two remote sensing technologies (lidar and X-band marine radar) along with two nearshore hydrodynamic and morphodynamic analyses supported or motivated by these remote...
Wind-driven coastal upwelling brings subsurface water onto the central-Oregon shelf after the spring transition each year. This cold and salty source water is oxygen-poor, yet above the hypoxic threshold, dissolved oxygen < 1.4 ml l⁻¹. Once on the shelf, dissolved oxygen (DO) concentrations of upwelled near-bottom waters are modified by...
Intensified diurnal tides are found along portions of the Oregon shelf (U.S. West Coast) based on analyses
of high-frequency (HF) radar surface current data and outputs of a 1-km resolution ocean circulation model.
The K₁ tidal currents with magnitudes near 0.07 m s⁻¹ over a wider part of the shelf...
The coastal region is home to many types of surface fronts that exist on a submesoscale (1-10 $km$). While in situ observations capture point or transect observations of frontal behavior subsurface, their complex spatial patterns can be well-captured using remote sensing techniques, which provide synoptic views of the ocean surface...
Vertical transports of plankton, momentum, heat, and turbulence are modeled. A novel integration of high resolution turbulence and biophysical modeling is used to show the influence of a Kelvin-Helmholtz instability on the vertical migration of simple gyrotactic organisms. A viscous limit on mixing driven by shear turbulence is proposed. Large...
Influences of tidal and slower (subtidal) oceanic flows over the continental shelf and slope off Oregon are studied using a high-resolution ocean circulation model and comparative model-data analyses. The model is based on the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS), a fully nonlinear, three-dimensional model (using hydrostatic and Boussinesq approximations). The...
A Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS) application for the coastal region of Kenya and Tanzania (0-10° S, 38.7-46.98° E) was developed with the aim of better resolving the circulation patterns in the coastal region that is poorly represented in global models. The model has a horizontal resolution of 4 km,...