In the northwestern Gulf of Mexico there is a need for reliable water level forecasts to facilitate safe commercial navigation, marine construction, and emergency management. Though the low amplitude tides of the region can be predicted with conventional harmonic techniques, frequent strong storms make accurate forecasts of water levels difficult....
This thesis presents the details of a large-scale laboratory experiment to study the
turbulence generated by waves breaking on a fixed barred beach. The data set includes
comprehensive measurements of free surface displacement and fluid velocity for one
random and one regular wave case.
Observations of the time-averaged turbulent kinetic...
Field deployments, flume experiments, and a 2D wave model have been used to identify the characteristics of Clark-type oxygen microelectrodes and measurement parameters that could possibly bias eddy correlation (EC) flux measurements made under waves. Eddy correlation is a technique adapted from atmospheric sciences that couples concurrent and co-located velocity...
Hazards threaten coastal communities and ecosystems over a wide range of spatiotemporal scales. One of the most pressing concerns for coastal property owners, decision makers, and researchers is the uncertain role that a changing climate will have on the intensity and frequency of these hazards. The significant uncertainties associated with...
Rates of benthic O₂ exchange are important measurements for determining organic matter remineralization, and can shed light on factors driving biogeochemical processes in coastal environments. Measurement of in situ O₂ consumption and production within permeable sediments, such as those found over ~43% of the Oregon-Washington shelf, has traditionally been done...
Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment bed is responsible for the evolution of complex patterns in nearshore and beach morphology. Central to our understanding of this system is knowledge of the...
The Large Wave Flume at the O.H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory houses a piston wavemaker with a built-in active absorption system designed by MTS Systems Corporation. The performance of the active absorption system has not been properly assessed yet. This thesis evaluates the performance of the MTS active absorption system...
A wave-by-wave forecasting system is desired for optimization of wave energy conversion devices and for improving safety of vessel-based marine operations. This study outlines the first validation attempts of a recently developed forecasting system called Wavecast. The forecasting approach uses X-Band marine radar images for data assimilation, then reconstructs and...
Radiation stresses, defined as the excess flow of momentum due to the presence of waves (Longuet-Higgins, 1964), are the main drivers behind the cross-shore and longshore forcing that results in wave setup, set-down, and longshore currents (e.g. Svendsen, 2006). Longshore currents entrain and transport sediment and therefore play an important...
Estuaries represent the confluence of land and ocean environments and encompass a number of complex interactions amongst tides, winds, offshore waves and the riverine contributions, all of which contribute to total water levels (TWLs). The study of TWLs and the relative weight of its components can assist local communities in...