Successful prediction of nearshore sediment migration is important in determining the vulnerability of a coastline. During energetic wave climates (storm events) sediment rapidly erodes from beaches and is deposited offshore. In subsequent milder wave conditions, the sediment migrates shoreward, accreting on the beach and helping to protect the coastline. It...
This thesis is comprised of two manuscripts based on a laboratory experiment conducted to examine realistic wave forcing on a vertical wall subjected to tsunami loading. The first manuscript examined tsunami force and pressure distributions on a rigid wall that was fronted by a small seawall. Six different seawall heights...
An experiment on solitary wave impact on a vertical cylinder was conducted in the three-dimensional wave basin at the Oregon State University Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory. The cylinder was designed using mechanic principles and finite element analysis techniques to enable accurate measurement of horizontal force and overturning moment. Video data...
The acoustic signals produced by the Dungeness crab (Cancer
magister) were investigated. The signals were examined for duration times and frequency content. The signals were converted from analog to digital form, and the autocorrelation functions and the power density spectrums were determined.
The signals produced by Dungeness and Japanese red...
Steep bathymetric anomalies in the beach profile, such as offshore borrow pits, submerged breakwaters, and nearshore canyons can significantly transform the wave climate through the effects of refraction, diffraction, and reflection. When located in the nearshore region the modified wave climate can also substantially change the location of breaking and...
An interesting means of shoal removal has recently been implemented by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for use in shallow Pacific
Coast tidal inlets and estuaries. In the past, removal of shoaled material has consisted of physical excavation of material, transportation from the site, and placement in a spoils...
Most tsunami studies have been conducted based on the incompressible fluid theory. However water compressibility must be considered for the process of tsunami generation by bottom displacements during submarine earthquakes. During the 2003 Tokachi-Oki earthquake, the ocean-bottom pressure variations were registered by the pressure gauges PG1 and PG2 located right...
Understanding the past, present, and future behavior of our nation's shorelines is vital for sensible coastal management. Localized areas of erosion, termed "erosional hot spots", can shift the shoreline landward threatening coastal infrastructure (Kraus and Galgano, 2001; Stauble and Gravens, 2004; McNinch, 2004). One specific type of erosional hot spot...
Coastal foredunes protect lives, infrastructure, and ecosystems during severe winter storms. In the U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW), coastal foredune geomorphology is determined by both physical and ecological mechanisms. Before the 1900's, the native plant Elymus mollis was the dominant dune grass and dune morphology was largely determined by sediment supply...