We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore
component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent
sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from
an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore
component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent
sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from
an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation and
currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model predictions. Here
bathymetry is estimated as an uncertain parameter in a data assimilation system, using the ensemble Kalman
filter (EnKF). The system...
Longshore currents are frequently occurring phenomena capable of transporting beach sediments, causing accretion and erosion of the shoreline. Forcing mechanisms are understood and well modeled for cases of alongshore homogeneous and monotonic bathymetry, yet the extension of these models to complex and irregular bathymetry sometimes fails. To test and improve...
Waves are the primary input of energy in the nearshore region, and together with the currents forced through the transfer of momentum that occurs during the wave breaking process they are the principal mechanism for sediment transport in the nearshore. The basic physics of waves and currents are thought to...
The feasibility of utilizing acoustic imaging techniques for
improving the undersea viewing capability of small submersibles is
investigated. The limiting values of major parameters in acoustic
imaging systems are established and graphs which illustrate the
parametric relationships are presented. A series of sample calculations
illustrate how the graphs can be...
The dynamics of land use in the State of Oregon are simulated
on a digital computer. The introductory chapter outlines the complex
nature of the problems facing the post-industrial society and argues
that the scientific and professional estates share in the responsibility
for public policy formulation. The second chapter .presents...
