Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05–0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low-sloping surf zone while the...
The temporal and spatial variability of crescentic sandbars is analyzed with hourly
long-term (months) video observations collected at four barred sites and are qualitatively
compared to the temporal and spatial variability predicted by hypotheses underpinning
existing approaches and models for crescentic bar formation (edge-wave template model,
linear stability analysis, and...