Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins (1956) describe the statistical distribution of maxima that would result from the linear superposition of random, Gaussian waves. The distribution function depends solely upon the relative width of the power spectrum and root-mean-square value of the process time series. Runup field data from three experiments are presented...
Alongshore-separated time series of natural swash motions were obtained over a range of environmental conditions using a video technique. Although the frequency spectra and normalized wavenumber spectra for these motions were particularly bland, wavenumber-frequency spectra of these data showed clear partitions of infragravity band energy levels associated with various wave...
Runup kinematics on a gently sloping natural beach are examined with detailed measurements from video images, resistance wires deployed at five elevations (between 5 and 25 cm) above and parallel to the beach face, and pressure sensors located in the inner surf zone. As suggested in a previous study comparing...
Beach response to overwash processes is a topic of significant importance. Two
particular aspects of this topic were chosen for detailed analysis: the distribution of
maximum wave runup elevations and the cross-beach celerity gradient of overwash bores
on natural beaches. Data were collected using both traditional nearshore instrumentation
and recently...
Equilibrium climate sensitivity of the Community Climate System Model, version 4 (CCSM4) is 3.20 degrees C for 1 degrees horizontal resolution in each component. This is about a half degree Celsius higher than in the previous version (CCSM3). The transient climate sensitivity of CCSM4 at 1 degrees resolution is 1.72...
In the absence of formal insurance, fishers often ”self-insure” against financial risk due to environmental and economic factors by adjusting fishing activities over species, space, and time. This diversification can be effective (e.g., Kasperski and Holland, 2013; Cline, Schindler, and Hilborn, 2017; Sethi, Dalton, and Hilborn, 2012; Fuller et al.,...
We review several approaches that have been used to estimate ocean surface gravity wavenumbers from wave-resolving remotely sensed image sequences. Two fundamentally different approaches that utilize these data exist. A power spectral density approach identifies wavenumbers where image intensity variance is maximized. Alternatively, a cross-spectral correlation approach identifies wavenumbers where...
Sandbars are ubiquitous, yet not well understood
beach features that change their position and shape in
response to changing wave conditions. We propose and test
a simple empirical model consisting of two coupled linear
differential equations that represents bar dynamics in terms
of wave forcing and two other state variables:...
