The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
This is an author's peer-reviewed final manuscript, as accepted by the publisher. The published article is copyrighted by Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and can be found at: https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-235.1
A three-part algorithm is described and tested to provide robust bathymetry maps based solely on long time series observations of surface wave motions. The first phase consists of frequency-dependent characterization of the wave field in which dominant frequencies are estimated by Fourier transform while corresponding wave numbers are derived from...
We examine the interactions and feedbacks between bathymetry, waves, currents, and
sediment transport. The first two pro jects focus on the use of remote sensing techniques
to expand our knowledge of the nearshore. Due to the plethora of snap-shot data that is
available from satellites and their distribution via Google...
The subaerial beach, composed of sand dunes and the foreshore, provides a natural buffer zone between vulnerable land and the dissipation of storm wave energy due to wave breaking. The natural beauty of this region is attractive to people, and as a result, significant investment has been placed in this...
Within the past several years the technology of high-throughput sequencing has transformed the study of biology by offering unprecedented access to life's fundamental building block, DNA. With this transformation's potential a host of brand-new challenges have emerged, many of which lend themselves to being solved through computational methods. From de...
Sedimentary sections recovered during the Deep Sea Drilling Project and the Ocean
Drilling Program provide the opportunity to study the evolution of Neogene climate at high
resolution overtime periods spanning millions of years. Two components of the paleodlimatic
system, eastern equatorial Pacific carbonate sedimentation and global ice volume, were
examined...
Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05–0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low-sloping surf zone while the...
Shore-based video remote sensing is used to observe and continually monitor nonlinear internal waves
propagating across the inner shelf. Month-long measurements of velocity from bottom-mounted acoustic
Doppler current profilers and temperature from thermistor chains at the 10- and 20-m isobaths are combined
with sea surface imagery from a suite of...
Full Text:
the Inner Shelf
Suanda, S. H., Barth, J. A., Holman, R. A., & Stanley, J. (2014). Shore-Based
Video
Shore-based video remote sensing is used to observe and continually monitor nonlinear internal waves
propagating across the inner shelf. Month-long measurements of velocity from bottom-mounted acoustic
Doppler current profilers and temperature from thermistor chains at the 10- and 20-m isobaths are combined
with sea surface imagery from a suite of...