The computational identification of gene Transcription Start Sites (TSSs) can provide insights into the regulation and function of genes without performing expensive experiments, particularly in organisms with incomplete annotations. High-resolution general-purpose TSS prediction remains a challenging problem, with little recent progress on the identification and differentiation of TSSs which are...
Successful prediction of nearshore sediment migration is important in determining the vulnerability of a coastline. During energetic wave climates (storm events) sediment rapidly erodes from beaches and is deposited offshore. In subsequent milder wave conditions, the sediment migrates shoreward, accreting on the beach and helping to protect the coastline. It...
Wave runup is an important physical process that affects nearshore sediment transport, coastal erosion, and flooding. Large and unexpected runup events can also be dangerous to beach goers. Extreme runup statistics are essential parameters used in engineering design of marine structures and in coastal management. Although the study of runup...
Understanding sandbar dynamics and variability is integral to developing a predictive
capacity for nearshore flows, sediment transport, morphological change, and
ultimately for determining coastline exposure to damaging storm waves. Along the
high-energy U.S. Pacific Northwest (PNW) coast, sandbars typically dominate the
bathymetry of the active zone. Here we report on...
Glacial isostatic adjustment (GIA) alters the amplitude and timing of ‘glacioeustatic’ sea level maxima and minima around the globe. No study has examined the intrinsic distance that one can correlate marine stratigraphic records of glacial–interglacial sedimentation across continental shelves subject to varying amounts of GIA. Here, we seek to model...
Coastal flooding and erosion are major concerns for low lying coastal communities -- particularly in light of accelerated sea level rise and climate change. To improve quantitative understanding of the physical drivers of both flooding and coastal landscape change, this dissertation explores coastal morphodynamics bridging the land-sea interface on modally...
This dissertation has focused on the charateristics of bubbles generated by breaking waves and the feedback of wave-current interaction on the forcing mechanism of low frequency wave especially basin seiching wave. For the first study, Optical image capture observations of breaking waves in a laboratory surf zone are presented. The...
Coastal flood hazard zones and the design of coastal defenses are often devised using either the maximum recorded total water level (TWL) or a 'design' event such as the 100-year return-level flood, usually projected from observed extreme events. Despite technological advances driving more consistent instrumental records of wave heights and...
The formation of beach placers primarily involves processes of
waves and currents that selectively sort and concentrate the valuable
minerals according to their densities, sizes and shapes. Black sand
placers are found on the beaches adjacent to the mouth of the Columbia
River. Reviews of historical shoreline changes show that...