A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations...
In 1996, Beach et al. first proposed the idea of mounting an echo-sounder on a Waverunner to measure nearshore beach profiles. This thesis discusses the Coastal Profiling System, an extension of the original work, which has been utilized to measure nearshore bathymetry at selected sites along the coasts of North...
The circular wave basin provides a means of physically modeling the nearshore
without the typical problems associated with end walls. Three different coastal
processes were examined to demonstrate the use of a spiral wavemaker in a circular
wave basin. These were longshore currents, shear waves, and groin circulation. A
beach...
Laboratory data of free surface elevations and fluid velocities were
obtained using a laser-Doppler velocimeter for the case of a periodic wave
plunging over an impermeable, steep (1:10) slope with a fixed bottom roughness.
The measurements were conducted over 15 cross-shore locations from the outer
surf zone to the swash...
This paper describes a method for measuring nearshore ocean wave characteristics with a land-based, long-period vertical seismometer. The wavemeter system has proven to be highly reliable and produces continuous wave observations at low cost. It is now operational at six Coast Guard stations along the Oregon and Washington coasts; data...