This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a high resolution wave forecasting model for the coasts of Washington and Oregon. The purpose of this project was to advance the wave predictive capabilities of the states of Oregon and the southwest part of Washington by including the effects of...
Analogous to ocean surface waves, waves in the ocean interior also experience steepening, breaking, and dissipation as they approach the coastline. Much less is known about this internal beach. In this work, extensive moored Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler and temperature/salinity data together with optical remote sensing are combined to describe...
Knowledge of wave conditions in nearshore regions supports the development of
ocean wave energy technology by providing wave climatology for device design
considerations, and power output estimates. By modeling wave transformation
over the continental shelf, wave conditions were predicted in nearshore regions
where potential wave energy conversion sites are located....
An empirical statistical model is developed that relates the non-tidal motion of the ocean surface currents off the Oregon coast to forecasts of the coastal winds. The empirical statistical model is then used to produce predictions of the surface currents that are evaluated for their agreement with measured currents. Measurements...
Sea-cliff erosion is a significant problem along the Oregon coast in that many
communities have been built on terraces affected by bluff retreat. There is considerable
coast-wide variability in the rates of cliff erosion. This variability is attributed in part to
tectonic activity that is causing differential interseismic uplift along...
The substantial wave energy resource of the US Pacific Northwest (i.e. off the coasts of Washington, Oregon and N. California) is assessed and characterized. Archived spectral records from ten wave measurement buoys, operated and maintained by the National Data Buoy Center and the Coastal Data Information Program, form the basis...
For the west coast of North America, from northern California to southern Washington, a habitat suitability prediction framework was developed to support wave energy device siting. Concern that wave energy devices may impact the seafloor and benthos has renewed research interest in the distribution of marine benthic invertebrates and factors...
This report documents oceanographic and meteorological measurements made from instruments deployed on four moorings over the continental shelf west of Oregon, from spring through
summer, 1999. These moorings were a component of an observational and numerical modeling program to study the response of the coastal ocean to wind forcing.
The...