Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
The longshore variability of the coastal response to hurricanes may be examined within the framework of a storm-impact scaling model that compares spatially-variable beach morphology and fluid forcing. The relative elevations of dune height and storm-induced water levels are used to define three impact regimes (swash, collision, and overwash), within...
Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Published June 1991. Facts and recommendations in this publication may no longer be valid. Please look for up-to-date information in the OSU Extension Catalog: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog
Micropaleontological data have been analyzed through mathematical
and statistical procedures, in order to: (1) establish the distribution
pattern of radiolarian assemblages in the surface sediments,
(2) establish the relationship of these assemblages with oceanographic
variables, (3) determine the faunal composition down-core with
respect to the faunal surface pattern, and (4)...
The role of insect herbivores in the nutrient cycling dynamics of forest ecosystems remains poorly understood. Although past research in herbivory has focused primarily on the deleterious effects that insects can have on tree growth and mortality, the overall effects of herbivory are more complex. Herbivores have the potential to...
Using wave and wind data from nearby buoys and gauges, real time
kinematic global positioning system (RTK-GPS) and light detection and ranging
(lidar) topographic survey data, and a robust video record, we have quantified the
Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB) of a dissipative end member beach in the
Pacific Northwest....
The U.S. Pacific Northwest is home to one of the most extreme wave climates in the world with waves of 10 m in height arriving to the coast approximately each year. With an average water temperature of 12℃, the beaches in the region are too cold to go on a...