The Melnikov method is applied to a model of parametrically generated cross-waves in a long rectangular channel in order to determine if these cross-waves are chaotic. A great deal of preparation is involved in order to obtain a suitable form for the application of the Melnikov method. The Lagrangian for...
This thesis presents an examination of the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer
under conditions of significant sediment response. Using both field observations and
simple models, the response of the bottom boundary layer to random waves is shown to
have a complex behavior. First, the linearized wave bottom boundary layer governing...
Shear waves, which are instabilities of the longshore current, are of interest
to nearshore research because they can act as a cross-shore mixing mechanism
for the current. The best method to study them is in a controlled environment,
such as circular wave tank where continuous longshore currents can be
generated....
The present thesis is a report of investigations on a model for computing the water flow in the wave tank of the OSU Wave Laboratory. A wave board, established at one end of the 100 m long, 4 m wide and 6 m deep wave tank, produces water waves by...
We investigate, theoretically and experimentally, the problem of modeling depth-integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves approaching from an arbitrary angle. An approximate theoretical model is developed, which captures the important effect of advection in the alongshore dynamics, and shows that a nondimensional parameter Re[subscript]s...
Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In...
The fractal dimension of measured ocean wave profiles is found to be in the range of 1.5-1.8. This non-integer dimension indicates the fractal nature of the waves. Standard formulations to analyze waves are based on a differential approach. Since fractals are non-differentiable, this formulation fails for waves with fractal characteristics....
The two dimensional wavemaker problem on a finite domain is derived
for nonlinear waves. A numerical method based on the method of lines is
developed and applied to two test problems, the nonlinear surface pressure
distribution problem and the nonlinear full-flap wavemaker problem. The
solutions yield information about the fluid...
The complexity of numerical ocean circulation models requires careful checking with a variety of test problems. The purpose of this paper is to develop a test problem involving Rossby and gravity waves in a two-layer fluid in a channel. The goal is to compute very accurate solutions to this test...