This paper details a method to compute absolute water velocity profiles from glider-based acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) measurements based on the "shear method" developed for lowered ADCPs. The instrument is a 614-kHz Teledyne RDI ADCP integrated into the body of a Teledyne Webb Research Slocum Glider. Shear is calculated...
Longshore currents are frequently occurring phenomena capable of transporting beach sediments, causing accretion and erosion of the shoreline. Forcing mechanisms are understood and well modeled for cases of alongshore homogeneous and monotonic bathymetry, yet the extension of these models to complex and irregular bathymetry sometimes fails. To test and improve...
A three component drag probe has been built, calibrated, and
used to measure velocities beneath deep water ocean waves and
turbulence in a tidal channel. Simple variable inductance devices
which may be submerged in water were used as displacement transducers
and the associated electronics provided voltage outputs which
were proportional...
An instrument which measures current from D.C. to 50 megahertz
by clipping a transformer core around a current carrying conductor
is discussed. A Hall device, which is installed in the core cross-section, detects the flux in the core. This Hall device in conjunction
with an amplifier is used to null...
Groundwater is an important resource in
Oregon. As more people depend on groundwater,
some water tables around the State are dropping,
threatening their water supplies. State law
requires that groundwater be managed as a
renewable resource, and that water tables do not
drop permanently.
This thesis demonstrates that at low frequencies (periods longer
than 2.5 days) local currents off the coast of Oregon are closely
related to the wind. Wind and current observations made during
August and September 1969 are described and compared to demonstrate
that a relationship exists; the physics of the interaction...
The circular wave basin provides a means of physically modeling the nearshore
without the typical problems associated with end walls. Three different coastal
processes were examined to demonstrate the use of a spiral wavemaker in a circular
wave basin. These were longshore currents, shear waves, and groin circulation. A
beach...
A summary of moored instrument measurements over the continental
shelf of Peru is presented. Measurements of variables were made in an
upwelling zone between Pisco and San Juan, from 28 March to 9 April, 1969.
Time series of temperature and horizontal current and wind velocities were
obtained at several depths...