Problems associated with quantification of deep water wave kinematics
and dynamics are examined. Summaries of Stokes' theory and Dean's
stream function theory are reported. A computer algorithm is developed
to solve the hydrodynamic characteristics for Stokes' fifth and third
order and linear theories. Tests are initiated to verify the results...
A numerical calculation procedure for the hydrodynamic interference effects between large multiple structures interacting with
linear ocean waves is presented in this study. Viscous effects are
neglected and the hydrodynamic pressure forces are assumed to be
inertially dominated. A finite element method which incorporates
radiation boundary dampers is adopted to...
To better understand the extreme local amplification of tsunami, the experimental investigation on counter-propagating solitary wave collisions over a horizontal bottom was conducted using the optical measurement techniques: Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV), and Laser Induced Fluoresce (LIF). Head-on collisions and oblique collisions of equal-amplitude as well as unequal-amplitude waves were...
Two types of linear random wave simulation methods are investigated;
viz., (1) Deterministic Spectral Amplitude (DSA) and (2) Nondeterministic
Spectral Amplitude (NSA). These linear simulations are extended to
second-order in a perturbation expansion in the frequency domain by
utilizing a Fast Fourier Transform (FFT).
The nonlinear interaction matrix for waves...
A complete solution, exact to second-order, for wave motion
forced by a hinged-wavemaker of variable-draft is presented. A
solution for a piston type wavemaker is also obtained as a special
case of a hinged-wavemaker with negative infinite draft. The
existing Stokes inviscid theories for mass transport is extended to
include...
This study includes an analytical solution to the wave-current
barrier interaction problem and large scale experiments to validate the
theory.
The boundary value problem is solved mathematically by characterizing
the flow field and barrier motion separately, then coupling
the relationships with the appropriate kinematic and dynamic boundary
conditions.
The flow...
The goal of this research project is to determine the fractal nature, if any, which
surface water waves exhibit when viewed on a microscopic scale. Due to the
relatively recent development of this area of mathematics, a brief introduction to the
study of fractal geometry, as well as several examples...
The present thesis is a report of investigations on a model for computing the water flow in the wave tank of the OSU Wave Laboratory. A wave board, established at one end of the 100 m long, 4 m wide and 6 m deep wave tank, produces water waves by...
Theoretical b:::-eaking criteria for progressive surface gravity waves
are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these breaking criteria.
The measurements of Komar and Simmons are presented here for the first
time. Only three theoretical breaking criteria have been...