Forcing and variability of nonstationary rip currents Public Deposited

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/articles/fj236703g

Access to this item has been restricted by repository administrators at the request of the publisher until June 30, 2016.

To the best of our knowledge, one or more authors of this paper were federal employees when contributing to this work. This is the publisher’s final pdf. The article is copyrighted by the American Geophysical Union and published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. It can be found at:  http://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/agu/jgr/journal/10.1002/%28ISSN%292169-9291/

Descriptions

Attribute NameValues
Creator
Abstract or Summary
  • urface wave transformation and the resulting nearshore circulation along a section of coast with strong alongshore bathymetric gradients outside the surf zone are modeled for a consecutive 4 week time period. The modeled hydrodynamics are compared to in situ measurements of waves and currents collected during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment and indicate that for the entire range of observed conditions, the model performance is similar to other studies along this stretch of coast. Strong alongshore wave height gradients generate rip currents that are observed by remote sensing data and predicted qualitatively well by the numerical model. Previous studies at this site have used idealized scenarios to link the rip current locations to undulations in the offshore bathymetry but do not explain the dichotomy between permanent offshore bathymetric features and intermittent rip current development. Model results from the month-long simulation are used to track the formation and location of rip currents using hourly statistics, and results show that the direction of the incoming wave energy strongly controls whether rip currents form. In particular, most of the offshore wave spectra were bimodal and we find that the ratio of energy contained in each mode dictates rip current development, and the alongshore rip current position is controlled by the incident wave period. Additionally, model simulations performed with and without updating the nearshore morphology yield no significant change in the accuracy of the predicted surf zone hydrodyanmics indicating that the large-scale offshore features (e.g., submarine canyon) predominately control the nearshore wave-circulation system.
Resource Type
DOI
Date Available
Date Issued
Citation
  • Long, J. W., & Özkan‐Haller, H. T. (2016). Forcing and variability of nonstationary rip currents. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121(1), 520-539. doi:10.1002/2015JC010990
Series
Keyword
Rights Statement
Funding Statement (additional comments about funding)
Publisher
Peer Reviewed
Language
Replaces

Relationships

Parents:

This work has no parents.

Last modified

Downloadable Content

Download PDF

Items