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Bars, bumps, and holes : models for the generation of complex beach topography

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  • In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number (λ₁ -- λ₂) irrespective of whether the waves propagate in the same direction (say λ₁, λ₂ positive) or in opposite directions (λ₂ negative). The interaction of two edge wave modes is examined in detail. The drift velocities are calculated and a simple sediment transport model is used to predict the beach topography that would be in equilibrium with these flow patterns. As expected, crescentic sand bars are produced by the special case of standing edge waves (λ₁ = - λ₂). Intriguingly, for all other cases a combination of complex transverse bars plus meandering or straight offshore bars result, patterns that are surprisingly reminiscent of many published descriptions of complex, rhythmic topography. The extension of the model to three or more waves produces topography that appears to be very irregular. Although the pattern should repeat over sufficiently long distances along the beach, even with only three waves these distances may be very large compared to the scale of the bars.
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  • 87
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