Radar Remote Sensing Estimates of Waves and Wave Forcing at a Tidal Inlet Public Deposited

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  • The time and space variability of wave transformation through a tidal inlet is investigated with radar remote sensing. The frequency of wave breaking and the net wave breaking dissipation at high spatial resolution is estimated using image sequences acquired with a land-based X-band marine radar. Using the radar intensity data, transformed to normalized radar cross section s0, the temporal and spatial distributions of wave breaking are identified using a threshold developed via the data probability density function. In addition, the inlet bathymetry is determined via depth inversion of the radar-derived frequencies and wavenumbers of the surface waves using a preexisting algorithm (cBathy). Wave height transformation is calculated through the 1D cross-shore energy flux equation incorporating the radar-estimated breaking distribution and bathymetry. The accuracy of the methodology is tested by comparison with in situ wave height observations over a 9-day period, obtaining correlation valuesR50.68 to 0.96, and root-mean-square errors from 0.05 to 0.19 m. Predicted wave forcing, computed as the along-inlet gradient of the cross-shore radiation stress ›Sxx/›x was onshore during high-wave conditions, in good agreement (R 5 0.95) with observations.
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  • Díaz Méndez, G. M., Haller, M. C., Raubenheimer, B., Elgar, S., & Honegger, D. A. (2015). Radar Remote Sensing Estimates of Waves and Wave Forcing at a Tidal Inlet. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 32(4), 842-854. doi:10.1175/JTECH-D-14-00215.1
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  • 32
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  • 4
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  • Funded through the Office of Naval Research Grant N00014-10-1-0932 and the Office of the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering.
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