Wave energy saturation on a natural beach of variable slope

Citeable URL: https://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/articles/7h149r18g

Descriptions

Attribute Name	Values
Creator	Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. Holman, Robert A.
Abstract	Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone, wave energy became saturated, and wave height was strongly dependent on depth. However, the ratio of rms wave height to local depth (Yrms) was found not to be constant but to vary between 0.29 and 0.55; Yrms increased with local slope and was independent of deepwater wave steepness. Thus the surf zone similarity parameter (the ratio of slope to the square root of steepness) did not adequately parameterize Yrms.
Resource Type	Article
DOI	https://doi.org/10.1029/JC090iC06p11939
Date Available	2010-07-09T23:57:55+00:00
Date Issued	1985-11-20
Citation	Sallenger, A., Jr., and R. Holman (1985), Wave Energy Saturation on a Natural Beach of Variable Slope, J. Geophys. Res., 90(C6), 11939-11944.
Journal Title	Journal of Geophysical Research
Journal Volume	90
Urheberrechts-Erklärung	Copyright Not Evaluated
Publisher	American Geophysical Union
Language	English [eng]
Replaces	http://hdl.handle.net/1957/16527