The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach Public Deposited

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/defaults/gf06g445s

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  • Swash hydrodynamics were investigated on an intermediate beach using runup data obtained from video images. Under mild, near-constant, offshore wave conditions, the presence of a sandbar and the tidally controlled water depth over its crest determined whether most of the incoming waves broke before reaching the shoreline. This forced a change in the pattern of wave energy dissipation across the surf zone between low and high tide, which was reflected by changes to swash on time scales of a few hours. Significant runup height (Rs, defined as 4 times the standard deviation of the waterline time series), was found to vary by a factor of 2 between low tide, when most of the waves were breaking over the sandbar (Rs/Hs ≈ 1.5, where Hs is the offshore significant wave height) and high tide, when the waves were barely breaking (Rs/Hs ≈ 2.7). The increase in wave energy dissipation during low tide was also associated with changes in swash maxima distribution, a decrease in mean swash period, and increasing energy at infragravity frequencies. Bispectral analysis suggested that this infragravity modulation might have been connected with the presence of secondary waves.
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  • Guedes, R. M. C., K. R. Bryan, G. Coco, and R. A. Holman (2011), The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach, Journal of Geophysical Research, 116, C04008, doi:10.1029/2010JC006660.
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  • description.provenance : Submitted by Deanne Bruner (deanne.bruner@oregonstate.edu) on 2011-12-12T23:17:16Z No. of bitstreams: 1 HolmanRA.COAS.EffectsTidesSwash.pdf: 1523676 bytes, checksum: fb23c28474592fb0a04230cff62a6eb5 (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Made available in DSpace on 2011-12-19T18:52:14Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 HolmanRA.COAS.EffectsTidesSwash.pdf: 1523676 bytes, checksum: fb23c28474592fb0a04230cff62a6eb5 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2011
  • description.provenance : Approved for entry into archive by Sue Kunda(sue.kunda@oregonstate.edu) on 2011-12-19T18:52:14Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 HolmanRA.COAS.EffectsTidesSwash.pdf: 1523676 bytes, checksum: fb23c28474592fb0a04230cff62a6eb5 (MD5)

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