Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach Public Deposited

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/defaults/gt54kp54k

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  • Because of highly dissipative conditions and strong alongshore gradients in foreshore beach morphology, wave run-up data collected along the central Oregon coast during February 1996 stand in contrast to run-up data currently available in the literature. During a single data run lasting approximately 90 min, the significant vertical run-up elevation varied by a factor of 2 along the 1.6 km study site, ranging from 26 to 61% of the offshore significant wave height, and was found to be linearly dependent on the local foreshore beach slope that varied by a factor of 5. Run-up motions on this high-energy dissipative beach were dominated by infragravity (low frequency) energy with peak periods of approximately 230 s. Incident band energy levels were 2.5 to 3 orders of magnitude lower than the low-frequency spectral peaks and typically 96% of the run-up variance was in the infragravity band. A broad region of the run-up spectra exhibited an ƒ¯⁴ roll off, typical of saturation, extending to frequencies lower than observed in previous studies. The run-up spectra were dependent on beach slope with spectra for steeper foreshore slopes shifted toward higher frequencies than spectra for shallower foreshore slopes. At infragravity frequencies, run-up motions were coherent over alongshore length scales in excess of 1 km, significantly greater than decorrelation length scales on moderate to reflective beaches.
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  • Beach, R. A., Holman, R. A., Ruggiero, P., Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach (2004), J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06025.
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  • description.provenance : Approved for entry into archive by Linda Kathman(linda.kathman@oregonstate.edu) on 2010-05-10T20:58:01Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Ruggiero et ala 2004 JGR.pdf: 429885 bytes, checksum: 45949f62973c6b8fc71c1b4a33396e78 (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Submitted by Mary Phan (mpscanner@gmail.com) on 2010-05-04T21:06:25Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Ruggiero et ala 2004 JGR.pdf: 429885 bytes, checksum: 45949f62973c6b8fc71c1b4a33396e78 (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Made available in DSpace on 2010-05-10T20:58:01Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Ruggiero et ala 2004 JGR.pdf: 429885 bytes, checksum: 45949f62973c6b8fc71c1b4a33396e78 (MD5) Previous issue date: 2004

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