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Abstract or Summary |
- Models for surface gravity wave propagation in the presence of currents often assume the current
field to be quasi-stationary, which implies that the absolute wave frequency is time invariant.
However, in the presence of unsteady currents or time-varying water depth, linear wave theory
predicts a time variation of the absolute wave frequency (and wavenumber). Herein, observations of
wave frequency modulations from a large-scale laboratory experiment are presented. In this case,
the modulations are caused by both unsteady depths and unsteady currents due to the presence of
low-frequency standing waves. These new observations allow a unique and detailed verification of
the theoretical predictions regarding variations in the absolute wave frequency. In addition, analytic
solutions for the variations in frequency and wave height induced by the unsteady medium are found
through a perturbation analysis. These solutions clarify the dependency of the wave frequency/wave
height modulations on the characteristics of the unsteady medium. We also find that analytic
solutions for simplified basin configurations provide an order of magnitude estimate of the expected
frequency modulation effect. Finally, the importance of this phenomenon in natural situations is
discussed.
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DOI |
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Citation |
- Haller, M. C., & Özkan-Haller, H. T. (2007). Waves on unsteady currents [Electronic version]. Physics of Fluids, 19(12).
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Additional Information |
- Vol. 19 (2007)
- Physics of Fluids
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Previous issue date: 2007-12-03
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