Infragravity waves over a natural barred profile Public Deposited

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  • Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge waves. As in earlier studies, the spectra compared closely; however, for some frequencies the energy of the measured spectrum exceeded the energy of the synthetic spectrum, suggesting that the run-up spectrum was not white but had dominating frequencies. Utilizing cross-shore flow data and synthetic spectra from a number of cross-shore locations, an equivalent run-up spectrum was calculated for each day. On the first day of the storm, the equivalent run-up spectrum indicated a dominant wave that had a node in velocity reasonably close to the bar crest. Later during the storm, when the bar had migrated farther offshore, there was no evidence for a dominant motion having a velocity node at the bar crest. The structure of the equivalent run-up spectrum compared well with spectra of direct measurements of run-up obtained several hundred meters away. We have no clear evidence in support of the theory that infragravity waves might form or force the offshore migration of a bar. To confirm this finding, longer records obtained synoptically over a developing bar are required. The dominant wave observed early in the storm was consistent with Symond and Bowen’s (1984) theoretical prediction of resonant amplification of discrete frequencies over a barred profile.
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  • Sallenger, A., Jr., and R. Holman (1987), Infragravity Waves Over a Natural Barred Profile, J. Geophys. Res., 92(C9), 9531-9540.
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  • description.provenance : Approved for entry into archive by Sue Kunda(sue.kunda@oregonstate.edu) on 2010-07-09T23:58:54Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 Sallenger_and_Holman_JGR_1987.pdf: 650279 bytes, checksum: 5e91119e3a45a2fbc57e321d583b8f6d (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Made available in DSpace on 2010-07-09T23:58:54Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 Sallenger_and_Holman_JGR_1987.pdf: 650279 bytes, checksum: 5e91119e3a45a2fbc57e321d583b8f6d (MD5) Previous issue date: 1987-08-15
  • Journal of Geophysical Research
  • Vol. 92 (1987)
  • description.provenance : Submitted by David Moynihan (dmscanner@gmail.com) on 2010-07-08T16:32:49Z No. of bitstreams: 1 Sallenger_and_Holman_JGR_1987.pdf: 650279 bytes, checksum: 5e91119e3a45a2fbc57e321d583b8f6d (MD5)

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