|Abstract or Summary
- Pants have become a seemingly necessary part of the average
American woman's wardrobe and may be worn for nearly every occasion.
However, many women have indicated that when conventional
methods of construction were used for pants-making, the pants did
not conform to their expectation of good fit. Observation showed that
pants made according to the conventional methods of construction did
not comply with the standards of good fit that have been established
for other garments. Therefore, the conventional methods of pants
construction were modified in accordance with the principles and
standards of clothing construction that have been used as a basis for
achieving good fit.
The basic differences between the unmodified and modified
methods of construction were: 1) the location of the lengthwise grain
line on the patterns, 2) the addition of fitting allowances on the fitting
seams of the modified pants patterns, 3) the techniques used to
facilitate the placement of the grain lines of the fabric on the balance
lines of the body, and 4) the fabrics used to construct the pants. The
participants were students at Oregon State University.
To determine the effect that a modified method of construction
would have on the fit of women's custom-made pants, eight pants
patterns were randomly selected from the commercial patterns purchased
by the participants. Two pairs of pants were constructed
from each of the selected patterns, one pair before the pattern was
modified and another pair after pattern modifications. An additional
46 pairs of pants were also made by the modified method of construction.
Each of the 62 pairs of pants was then modeled, and 12 characteristics
of fit were rated by a panel of clothing construction authorities
as well as by the other participants in a class.
There were statistically significant differences between the fit
of the crosswise grain line, front crotch, back crotch, and lower
back hip on the two sets of garments, while no significant differences
were found between the other characteristics of fit on these garments.
When the scores for the fit of the crosswise grain line, front crotch,
back crotch, and lower back hip were compared among groups of
modified pants, no significant differences were found. Subsequent
analysis of the scores for the modified pants indicated that:
1) bonded wool-acetate fabrics were not suitable for the construction
of closely fitted pants, 2) the size of the wearer apparently did not affect the ratings of the fit of the modified pants, and 3) the comfort
of the modified pants was considered to be above average. The results
of a secondary investigation showed that the total crotch length
method of measurement provided a better basis for determining the
adequacy of the crotch length of a pattern than did either of the two
crotch depth methods of measurement.