Beach foreshore response to long-period waves in the swash-zone Public Deposited

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/concern/graduate_thesis_or_dissertations/sq87bx32m

Descriptions

Attribute NameValues
Creator
Abstract or Summary
  • A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations have heights of up to 6 cm with typical time scales of 8 to 10 minutes. They can be characterized in two ways: by the progression of the fluctuations up the foreshore slope (landward), and by the decrease in the RNS height of the fluctuations as they progress landward. The velocity of migration also changes as the fluctuations progress landward. Analysis of runup time series obtained by time-lapse photography concurrent with the sediment level measurements reveals long-period waves of undetermined origin at frequencies and phases which strongly suggest that the waves force the original perturbation in sediment level. In order to better understand the characteristics of these sediment level fluctuations, a numerical model of sediment transport on the foreshore has been developed. Gradients in sediment transport define erosional and depositional areas on the foreshore. Runup velocities were modeled and the results were used in the sediment transport model. The model predicts that any perturbation in foreshore elevation will progress landward while decreasing in amplitude and in velocity, thereby matching the field observations. Relationships between beach slope and the profile response clarified by this model are used to explain the initial formation of the perturbations of sediment level.
Resource Type
Date Available
Date Copyright
Date Issued
Degree Level
Degree Name
Degree Field
Degree Grantor
Commencement Year
Advisor
Academic Affiliation
Non-Academic Affiliation
Subject
Rights Statement
Peer Reviewed
Language
Digitization Specifications
  • File scanned at 300 ppi (Monochrome) using Capture Perfect 3.0.82 on a Canon DR-9080C in PDF format. CVista PdfCompressor 4.0 was used for pdf compression and textual OCR.
Replaces
Additional Information
  • description.provenance : Approved for entry into archive by Patricia Black(patricia.black@oregonstate.edu) on 2012-02-16T20:11:00Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 HowdPeterA1984.pdf: 959468 bytes, checksum: fb181a9821e0883fbc402c4b42f51d0c (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Submitted by Kevin Martin (martikev@onid.orst.edu) on 2012-01-05T22:24:24Z No. of bitstreams: 1 HowdPeterA1984.pdf: 959468 bytes, checksum: fb181a9821e0883fbc402c4b42f51d0c (MD5)
  • description.provenance : Made available in DSpace on 2012-02-16T20:11:00Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 1 HowdPeterA1984.pdf: 959468 bytes, checksum: fb181a9821e0883fbc402c4b42f51d0c (MD5) Previous issue date: 1984-02-10
  • description.provenance : Approved for entry into archive by Patricia Black(patricia.black@oregonstate.edu) on 2012-01-06T22:57:10Z (GMT) No. of bitstreams: 1 HowdPeterA1984.pdf: 959468 bytes, checksum: fb181a9821e0883fbc402c4b42f51d0c (MD5)

Relationships

In Administrative Set:
Last modified: 08/15/2017

Downloadable Content

Download PDF
Citations:

EndNote | Zotero | Mendeley

Items