Graduate Thesis Or Dissertation
 

Relation of selected seaming methods and threads to the breaking strength and elongation of seams in a polyester double-knit fabric

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  • The major purposes of the research were to determine whether there were significant differences in breaking strength and elongation of the following types of seams in a polyester double-knit fabric: 1. seams stitched with threads of (a) mercerized cotton, (b) core-spun polyester/cotton, and (c) bonded nylon monocord. 2. seams stitched with (a) a narrow zigzag stitch, (b) a lockstitch made while stretching the fabric, and (c) an elastic straight stitch. 3. seams stitched (a) parallel to the wales and (b) parallel to the courses. 4. seams stitched with settings of (a) 9 stitches per inch, (b) 12 stitches per inch, and (c) 15 stitches per inch. Results indicated that the polyester/cotton core-spun thread produced seams with greater breaking strength and elongation than mercerized cotton thread for all comparable sets of specimens. Seams constructed with polyester/cotton core-spun thread also tended to exhibit greater seam breaking strength and elongation than those seamed with bonded nylon monocord thread. The nylon thread, in turn, tended to produce stronger and more extensible seams than did mercerized cotton thread. The elastic straight stitch (a triple lockstitch) produced seams with greater breaking strength and elongation than either of the other stitch types. Most seams stitched with the lockstitch with stretch had a higher mean seam breaking strength and elongation than comparable seams stitched with the zigzag stitch, Stitch length affected seam breaking strength and elongation to a greater extent with the zigzag than with the lockstitch with stretch. For most comparable sets of zigzag specimens, increases in the number of stitches per inch were accompanied by increases in seam breaking strength and elongation. With the lockstitch, those differences which were significant indicated that the shorter stitches were related to greater breaking strength and elongation. Seams parallel to the courses were related to greater seam breaking strength and elongation than seams parallel to the wales.
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