The longshore variability of the coastal response to hurricanes may be examined within the framework of a storm-impact scaling model that compares spatially-variable beach morphology and fluid forcing. The relative elevations of dune height and storm-induced water levels are used to define three impact regimes (swash, collision, and overwash), within...
The project presented here emphasizes a specific biological problem affecting the salmon cage culture with the final goal being to propose a realistic management strategy for fjordic estuaries worldwide.
A coupled climate-carbon cycle model and ice core CO2 data from the last glacial
period are used to explore the impact of changes in ocean circulation on atmospheric
CO2 concentrations on millennial time scales. In the model, stronger wind
driven circulation increases atmospheric CO2. Changes in the buoyancy driven
deep...
We sharpen our view of an eastern boundary current region during
the upwelling season through the analysis of several data sets.
We focus on the mesoscale flow field off of northern California,
observed during the Coastal Transition Zone (CTZ) experiment of 1988.
First, we estimate tidal currents in the region...
Coastal-based high-frequency (HF) radar systems are an increasingly used tool for measuring surface currents in the coastal ocean. These systems provide a spatial and temporal resolution not achievable with other methods. Standard-range sites typically generate hourly maps of surface currents on a 2km grid extending approximately 50km from shore while...
The properties and evolution of nonlinear internal waves (NLIWs) depend
upon the background conditions within which waves form, propagate, and dissipate. As a result, the NLIW field on the New Jersey shelf displayed dramatic variability during the Shallow Water 2006 experiment. Wave variability was exhibited by 1) amplitudes that ranged...
During four cruises in July and September of 2008 and 2009, the shipboard X-band radar was tuned to detect the modulated bands of surface roughness caused by converging and diverging currents associated with high-frequency nonlinear internal wave (NLIW) packets. The data collected was used to quantify the propagation direction (ϴp),...
A drifter equipped with bio-optical sensors and an automated water sampler was deployed in the California Current as part of the coastal transition zone program to study the biological, chemical, and physical dynamics of the meandering filaments. During deployments in 1987 and 1988, measurements were made of fluorescence, downwelling irradiance,...
Dynamical assimilation of surface elevation from tide gauges is investigated to estimate the bottom drag coefficient and surface stress as a first step in improving modeled tidal and wind-driven circulation in the Chesapeake Bay. A two-dimensional shallow water model and an adjoint variational method with a limited memory quasi-Newton optimization...
The Coastal Ocean Advances in Shelf Transport (COAST) program conducted an
interdisciplinary study of coastal upwelling off central Oregon during summer 2001.
Two intensive field efforts during May–June and August 2001 were coordinated with
ocean circulation, ecosystem, and atmospheric modeling of the region. A primary
goal was to contrast the...
Observations of internal solitary waves (ISWs) and of their role in sediment
resuspension during the Coastal Mixing and Optics 1996 (CMO 96) experiment are
reported. The largest resuspension events observed in the experiment can be related to
retarded flow under the wave footprint. Two distinctly different periods of resuspension
events...
During summer 2001, high-resolution hydrographic, velocity, and bio-optical surveys
were conducted over Heceta Bank off central Oregon. North of the bank, upwelling
over simple bottom topography exhibited a classic response with a midshelf, baroclinic
coastal jet and upwelled isopycnals. The coastal upwelling jet follows the bank
topography as it widens...
During March–April 1999, 2 weeks of undulating CTD and shipboard acoustic
Doppler current profiler surveys revealed the variability of the intense internal tide on the
northern edge of Georges Bank. The nature of the internal tide was modulated by episodic
surface intrusions of cool, fresh Scotian Shelf Water (SSW), stratifying...
Application of the ²³⁰Th normalization method to estimate sediment burial fluxes in six cores from the
eastern equatorial Pacific (EEP) reveals that bulk sediment and organic carbon fluxes display a coherent regional
pattern during the Holocene that is consistent with modern oceanographic conditions, in contrast with estimates
of bulk mass...
Present methods used to retrieve altimeter data do not provide reliable estimates of
sea surface height (SSH) in the nearshore region, resulting in a measurement gap of
25–50 km next to the coast. In the present work, gridded SSH fields produced by
Archiving, Validation, and Interpretation of Satellite Oceanographic data...