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Filtering by: DOI 10.1029/2005PA001208 Remove constraint DOI: 10.1029/2005PA001208 Advisor Ozkan Haller, H. Tuba Remove constraint Advisor: Ozkan Haller, H. Tuba

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  • Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and rivers

    Creator:
    Long, Joseph W.
    Abstract:
    Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation
    Full Text:
    controls on nearshore rip currents, Journal of Geophysical Research, 110, C12,007, doi:10.1029

  • Data Assimilation using Synthetic-Aperture Radar Imagery for Bathymetry Inversion at the Mouth of the Columbia River

    Creator:
    Harper, Spencer H.
    Abstract:
    Synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) imagery can provide wavenumber and frequency data to generate bathymetry estimates for locations where limited access or extreme ocean conditions can make standard bathymetry survey techniques difficult or impossible. The availability of SAR data could allow for regular bathymetry estimates of navigational channels providing insight into dredging...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis

  • Offshore controls on nearshore circulation

    Creator:
    Long, Joseph W.
    Abstract:
    The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis

  • Breaking Waves Offshore: Measurements and Modeling of Energy Dissipation

    Creator:
    Ticona Rollano, Fadia M.
    Abstract:
    In the presence of strong winds, ocean surface waves dissipate significant amounts of energy by breaking. Here, breaking rates and wave-following turbulent dissipation rate measurements are compared with numerical WAVEWATCH III estimates of bulk energy dissipation. At high winds, the measurements suggest that turbulent dissipation becomes saturated, however the modeled...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis

  • Extreme Wave Runup and Runup Variability on Beaches

    Creator:
    Li, Chuan
    Abstract:
    Wave runup is an important physical process that affects nearshore sediment transport, coastal erosion, and flooding. Large and unexpected runup events can also be dangerous to beach goers. Extreme runup statistics are essential parameters used in engineering design of marine structures and in coastal management. Although the study of runup...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation

  • Depth-dependence of surf zone eddies : a study at Duck, NC

    Creator:
    Aiken, Rebecca A.
    Abstract:
    Surf zone eddies (f < 0.01 Hz) are important in nearshore mixing, shoreline erosion, the distribution of pollutants, and ecological processes, such as offshore transport of larvae. Surf zone eddies have traditionally been treated as two-dimensional features with horizontal length scales larger than the local water depth. Studies by Lippmann...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis

  • Wave runup : Physics, variability, and societal impacts

    Creator:
    García Medina, Gabriel
    Abstract:
    The U.S. Pacific Northwest is home to one of the most extreme wave climates in the world with waves of 10 m in height arriving to the coast approximately each year. With an average water temperature of 12℃, the beaches in the region are too cold to go on a...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation

  • Data assimilation for prediction of shallow water flows with uncertain bathymetry

    Creator:
    Wilson, Gregory W.
    Abstract:
    A new method is introduced for incorporating bathymetric uncertainty into predictions of nearshore and river flows (i.e., unstratified flows primarily forced by pressure and radiation stress gradients). The method involves the use of the ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) as a parameter estimation scheme, where the parameter to be estimated is...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation
    Full Text:
    DC, 20009-1277, U.S.A. vol. 115, C12057, doi:10.1029/2010JC006286, 2010 6 2.1 Introduction

  • Observations of cross-shore sediment transport and formulation of the undertow

    Creator:
    Guannel, Gregory E.
    Abstract:
    A new set of data from a large-scale sand bar migration experiment is presented. During this experiment, two sandbars were generated. One of the bar was generated by the action of undertow, and sediment moved offshore. The other bar was generated by the shoreward movement of sediment coming from the...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation