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Filtering by: Alt title Beach erosion on Siletz Spit, Oregon Remove constraint Alt title: Beach erosion on Siletz Spit, Oregon Advisor Ozkan Haller, H. Tuba Remove constraint Advisor: Ozkan Haller, H. Tuba

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  • Offshore controls on nearshore circulation

    Creator:
    Long, Joseph W.
    Abstract:
    The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    Offshore Controls on Nearshore Circulation Joseph W. Long A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University

  • Extreme Wave Runup and Runup Variability on Beaches

    Creator:
    Li, Chuan
    Abstract:
    Wave runup is an important physical process that affects nearshore sediment transport, coastal erosion, and flooding. Large and unexpected runup events can also be dangerous to beach goers. Extreme runup statistics are essential parameters used in engineering design of marine structures and in coastal management. Although the study of runup...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation
    Full Text:
    Agate Beach (located on central Oregon coast). During this period the offshore wave height and wave

  • Wave runup : Physics, variability, and societal impacts

    Creator:
    García Medina, Gabriel
    Abstract:
    The U.S. Pacific Northwest is home to one of the most extreme wave climates in the world with waves of 10 m in height arriving to the coast approximately each year. With an average water temperature of 12℃, the beaches in the region are too cold to go on a...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation
    Full Text:
    . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 2.1 A typical sign on an Oregon beach access. Visitors are warned about the possibility of

  • Nearshore wave predictions along the Oregon and southwest Washington coast

    Creator:
    García-Medina, Gabriel
    Abstract:
    This thesis contains a manuscript describing the implementation of a high resolution wave forecasting model for the coasts of Washington and Oregon. The purpose of this project was to advance the wave predictive capabilities of the states of Oregon and the southwest part of Washington by including the effects of...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    170°W to 77.5°W. To account for local bathymetric features on the Oregon continental shelf we then

  • Data Assimilation using Synthetic-Aperture Radar Imagery for Bathymetry Inversion at the Mouth of the Columbia River

    Creator:
    Harper, Spencer H.
    Abstract:
    Synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) imagery can provide wavenumber and frequency data to generate bathymetry estimates for locations where limited access or extreme ocean conditions can make standard bathymetry survey techniques difficult or impossible. The availability of SAR data could allow for regular bathymetry estimates of navigational channels providing insight into dredging...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    extends from Benson beach in the offshore direction. Clatsop Spit is located on the Oregon side of the

  • Depth-dependence of surf zone eddies : a study at Duck, NC

    Creator:
    Aiken, Rebecca A.
    Abstract:
    Surf zone eddies (f < 0.01 Hz) are important in nearshore mixing, shoreline erosion, the distribution of pollutants, and ecological processes, such as offshore transport of larvae. Surf zone eddies have traditionally been treated as two-dimensional features with horizontal length scales larger than the local water depth. Studies by Lippmann...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    degree of Master of Science in Civil Engineering presented on September 11, 2014. Title: Depth

  • Field validation of a nearshore circulation model for alongshore-nonuniform flows

    Creator:
    Wilson, Gregory W.
    Abstract:
    We investigate, theoretically and experimentally, the problem of modeling depth-integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves approaching from an arbitrary angle. An approximate theoretical model is developed, which captures the important effect of advection in the alongshore dynamics, and shows that a nondimensional parameter Re[subscript]s...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    -integrated (2DH) surf zone circulation on an alongshore-nonuniform natural beach, with waves ap- proaching

  • Wave modeling at the mouth of the Columbia River

    Creator:
    Kassem, Sarah
    Abstract:
    As the second largest river in the U.S., the entrance to the Columbia River is home to some of the most extreme wave conditions on the Pacific Coast. Winter storms commonly generate waves 6-8 m in height, which in combination with strong tidal currents, can produce dangerous navigation conditions. To...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    near the north jetty is due to wave focusing on Peacock spit, and over the last decade, the quick

  • Nearshore hydrodynamic model comparisons and predictions of bathymetric evolution

    Creator:
    Lescinski, Jamie M.
    Abstract:
    The surf zone exhibits large energetic signals from wave shoaling and subsequent dissipation due to breaking, forcing circulation. The bathymetry responds to the wave and wave-induced circulation with the growth, transport, and destruction of large scale bathymetric features, such as mega ripples and sand bars. There is an obvious fluctuation...
    Resource Type:
    Masters Thesis
    Full Text:
    . Lescinski for the degree of Master of Ocean Engineering in Ocean Engineering presented on September 14

  • Modeling shallow-water hydrodynamics : rotations, rips, and rivers

    Creator:
    Long, Joseph W.
    Abstract:
    Hydrodynamic models are used as a diagnostic tool to understand the temporal variability of shallow-water processes that are difficult to completely resolve with traditional field measurements. For all simulations, modeled quantities are qualitatively or quantitatively compared with available measurements to gain confidence in conclusions derived from the modeled results. In...
    Resource Type:
    Dissertation
    Full Text:
    ), Transient rip currents and nearshore circulation 8 on a swell-dominated beach, Journal of Geophysical