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Creator:: Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: . HOLMAN School of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis A. H. SALLENGER, JR. U.S

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Saturation on a Natural Beach of Variable Slope ASBURY H. SALLENGER, JR. • Branch of Pacific Marine

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
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Full Text:: Barred Profile ASBURY H. $ALLENGER, JR. U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia ROBERT A. HOLMAN

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, Michael H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, M. H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Wilson, Greg W., Özkan-Haller, H. Tuba, and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: We investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone, in a setting which is weakly varying in the alongshore direction. Our focus is on the role of nonlinear advective terms. Using numerical experiments, we find that advection tends to counteract alongshore variations in momentum flux, resulting in more uniform kinematics....
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: dependence of surf zone advection Greg W. Wilson,1 H. Tuba €Ozkan-Haller,1 and Robert A. Holman1 Received

Creator:: Plant, Nathaniel G., Freilich, Michael H., and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Several aspects of feedback mechanisms associated with surf zone sandbar response have been characterized using bathymetric surveys, sampled approximately monthly over a 16-year period at the Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility (North Carolina). The measured bathymetry was alongshore averaged and modeled by the superposition of two Gaussian-shaped sandbars...
Resource Type:: Article

Creator:: Plant, Nathaniel G., Holman, Robert A., Freilich, Michael H., and Birkemeier, W. A.
Abstract:: Time and length scales of beach variability have been quantified using 16 years of beach surveys sampled at the Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility, located on the U.S. Atlantic coast. Between 50% and 90% of the bathymetric variability at this site was explained by alongshore-uniform response over the...
Resource Type:: Article

Creator:: Stockdon, Hilary F. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A new remote sensing technique based on video image processing has been developed for the estimation of nearshore bathymetry. The shoreward propagation of waves is measured using pixel intensity time series collected at a cross-shore array of locations using remotely operated video cameras. The incident band is identified, and the...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: (wave height H _<1 m), the performance of the technique across the entire profile improved to 6% (29

Creator:: Howd, Peter A., Bowen, Anthony J., and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A form of the linear, inviscid shallow water wave equation which includes alongshore uniform, but cross-shore variable, longshore currents and bathymetry is presented. This formulation provides a continuum between gravity waves (either leaky or edge waves) on a longshore current, and the recently discovered shear waves. In this paper we...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: , Canada ROBERT A. HOLMAN College of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis A form of the

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