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Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Barred Profile ASBURY H. $ALLENGER, JR. U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia ROBERT A. HOLMAN

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Saturation on a Natural Beach of Variable Slope ASBURY H. SALLENGER, JR. • Branch of Pacific Marine

Creator:: Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
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Full Text:: . HOLMAN School of Oceanography, Oregon State University, Corvallis A. H. SALLENGER, JR. U.S

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, Michael H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, M. H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: longshore currents C. C. Chickadel, R. A. Holman, and M. H. Freilich College of Oceanic and Atmospheric

Creator:: Howd, Peter A., Oltman-Shay, Joan, and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: The wave-induced velocity field in the nearshore is composed of contributions from incident wind waves (f > 0.05 Hz), surface infragravity waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl < (σ²/gβ) and shear waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl > σ²/gβ), where ƒ is the frequency, σ = 2πf, k is the...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Asbury Sallenger, Jr., U.S. Geological Survey) was located 3 m south of the central current meter. The

Creator:: Stockdon, Hilary F. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A new remote sensing technique based on video image processing has been developed for the estimation of nearshore bathymetry. The shoreward propagation of waves is measured using pixel intensity time series collected at a cross-shore array of locations using remotely operated video cameras. The incident band is identified, and the...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: (wave height H _<1 m), the performance of the technique across the entire profile improved to 6% (29

Creator:: Palmsten, Margaret L. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Simple parameterizations of dune erosion are necessary for forecasting erosion potential prior to an oncoming storm. Dune erosion may be parameterized in terms of the elevation of the total water level (composed of surge, tide, and wave runup) above the dune base and period of exposure of the dune to...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: forcing or feedback with morphology. This is best illustrated by the Storm Impact Scaling (Sallenger, 2000

Creator:: Lippmann, T. C. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A technique is presented to remotely measure the scales and morphology of natural sandbars based on the preferential dissipation of wind waves and swell over the crests of the bar. Photographic or video images are recorded and statistical uncertainties associated with incident wave height modulations removed by averaging (time exposures)....
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: [Sallenger et al., 1984]. Finally, the logistics of the remote measurement technique are not constrained by

Creator:: Holland, K. T. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins (1956) describe the statistical distribution of maxima that would result from the linear superposition of random, Gaussian waves. The distribution function depends solely upon the relative width of the power spectrum and root-mean-square value of the process time series. Runup field data from three experiments are presented...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: noise, Bell Syst. Tech. J., 24, 46-156, 1945. Sallenger, A. H., S. Penland, S. J. Williams, and J. R

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