Index Catalog // ScholarsArchive@OSU

Creator:: Bowen, A. J. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A new class of nearshore waves based on the shear instability of a steady longshore current is discussed. The dynamics depend on the conservation of potential vorticity but with the background vorticity field, traditionally the role of Coriolis in larger scale flows, supplied by the shear structure of the longshore...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: Shear Instabilities of the Mean Longshore Current 1. Theory

Creator:: Howd, Peter A., Bowen, Anthony J., and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: A form of the linear, inviscid shallow water wave equation which includes alongshore uniform, but cross-shore variable, longshore currents and bathymetry is presented. This formulation provides a continuum between gravity waves (either leaky or edge waves) on a longshore current, and the recently discovered shear waves. In this paper we...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: (either leaky or edge waves) on a longshore current, and the recently discovered shear waves. In this

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, Michael H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: : Nearshore processes; 4594 Oceanography: Physical: Instruments and techniques; KEYWORDS: longshore current

Creator:: Chickadel, C. C., Holman, Robert A., and Freilich, M. H.
Abstract:: We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the surf zone. The method uses short time series of video data collected from an alongshore array of pixels. These space-time data are...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: : Nearshore processes; 4594 Oceanography: Physical: Instruments and techniques; KEYWORDS: longshore current

Creator:: Holman, Robert A., Symonds, G., Thornton, E. B., and Ranasinghe, R.
Abstract:: Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to study the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel system. A total of 5271 rip channels was observed on 782 days. Occurrence statistics showed no evidence of the preferred location pattern...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: rate was well correlated to a proxy for the longshore current (R2 of 0.78). Thus there is no

Creator:: Wilson, Greg W., Özkan-Haller, H. Tuba, and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: We investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone, in a setting which is weakly varying in the alongshore direction. Our focus is on the role of nonlinear advective terms. Using numerical experiments, we find that advection tends to counteract alongshore variations in momentum flux, resulting in more uniform kinematics....
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Full Text:: - rents, with an extreme case being a rip current system [MacMahan et al., 2006 and references therein

Creator:: Howd, Peter A., Oltman-Shay, Joan, and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: The wave-induced velocity field in the nearshore is composed of contributions from incident wind waves (f > 0.05 Hz), surface infragravity waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl < (σ²/gβ) and shear waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl > σ²/gβ), where ƒ is the frequency, σ = 2πf, k is the...
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Full Text:: the seaward facing shear of the longshore current. INTRODUCTION Motivation For nearly two

Creator:: Sallenger, A. H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
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Full Text:: such as longshore currents arising from longshore variations of wave height [Munk and Traylot, 1947

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H. Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Time series of flow were measured across the inner surf zone during a storm. These data were used to quantify the dependence of wave height (transformed from measured flow) and velocity on local slope and depth. Similar to previous studies, as incident waves broke and propagated into the surf zone,...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: breaking waves. Equation (1) is a critical element of theories of longshore currents [Bowen, 1969' Longuet

Creator:: Sallenger, Asbury H., Jr. and Holman, Robert A.
Abstract:: Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
Resource Type:: Article
Full Text:: band: either edge waves or leaky waves. Edge waves are waves progressive longshore and trapped to the

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