Theoretical growth rates for resonantly driven edge waves in the nearshore are
estimated from the forced, shallow water equations of motion for the case of a plane sloping bed.
The forcing mechanism arises from spatial and temporal variations in radiation stress gradients
induced by a modulating incident wave field. Only...
The spatial and temporal variability of nearshore sand bar morphology is quantified using a unique data set
spanning 2 years. The data consist of daily time exposure images of incident wave breaking on an open coast
sandy beach which may be used to infer bar morphology (Lippmann and Holman, 1989)....
A technique is presented to remotely measure the scales and morphology of natural sandbars based
on the preferential dissipation of wind waves and swell over the crests of the bar. Photographic or
video images are recorded and statistical uncertainties associated with incident wave height modulations
removed by averaging (time exposures)....