A layered model of the study circulation in the South Pacific Ocean is constructed along the lines of Luyten, Pedlosky and Stommel, and driven by the mean annual wind stress distributions computed by Hellerman and Rosenatein. The results of the model agree quite well with published maps of topography of...
Field measurements of onshore and longshore velocities in the surf zone have been obtained on Martinique
Beach, Nova Scotia, for the purpose of investigating the dynamics of the infragravity band (0.003-
0.03 Hz) of the spectra. A total of35 data runs were obtained during a 1-week period. Of particular interest...
In shallow water, any two waves of the same frequency are shown to produce complex patterns of
drift velocity above the sea bed. If the longshore components λ₁, λ₂ of the wave numbers of the two
waves are different, these steady flow patterns exhibit a longshore periodicity of wave number...
Synchronous runup records were collected from 14 locations spaced irregularly over a 7 km stretch of
a low-slope beach. The significant runup height, herein defined as the significant vertical excursion of
water level at the shoreline, was typically 2 m, 60% of the incident significant wave height at the
breakpoint....