This thesis presents the details of a large-scale laboratory experiment to study the
turbulence generated by waves breaking on a fixed barred beach. The data set includes
comprehensive measurements of free surface displacement and fluid velocity for one
random and one regular wave case.
Observations of the time-averaged turbulent kinetic...
Knowledge of wave conditions in nearshore regions supports the development of
ocean wave energy technology by providing wave climatology for device design
considerations, and power output estimates. By modeling wave transformation
over the continental shelf, wave conditions were predicted in nearshore regions
where potential wave energy conversion sites are located....
The characterization of bathymetry and its time evolution is very important for both oceanographic science applications, and for societal reasons relating to coastal engineering
and development. Historically, the process of depth surveying has been costly and labor-intensive.
This is especially true in nearshore regions, hence a method that is both...
The rip current field resulting from the transformation of surface gravity waves over offshore submarine canyons is studied. Employing a wave transformation model and a wave-induced circulation model over observed bathymetry we find that rip current circulation cells exist with alongshore spacing of O(1OOm) even though the nearshore bathymetry displayed...
Caissons are frequently used in the coastal environment for
breakwaters, jetties, seawalls, and piers. Because a satisfactory
analytical solution to a typical caisson installation has not been
developed, design of a caisson-style structure typically is either
based on physical model testing, which is expensive, or the
structure is designed as...
Steep bathymetric anomalies in the beach profile, such as offshore borrow pits, submerged breakwaters, and nearshore canyons can significantly transform the wave climate through the effects of refraction, diffraction, and reflection. When located in the nearshore region the modified wave climate can also substantially change the location of breaking and...
Successful prediction of nearshore sediment migration is important in determining the vulnerability of a coastline. During energetic wave climates (storm events) sediment rapidly erodes from beaches and is deposited offshore. In subsequent milder wave conditions, the sediment migrates shoreward, accreting on the beach and helping to protect the coastline. It...