Theoretical breaking criteria for progressive surface gravity
waves are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned
with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these
breaking criteria. The measurements of Komar and Simmons are
presented here for the first time. Only three theoretical breaking
criteria have been...
Eight years (1994-2000) of data from the TOPEX/Poseidon satellite altimeter
are used to investigate the variability of the sea surface height and geostrophic
velocity of the California Current system. The TOPEX/Posiedon satellite measures
SSH along an exact-repeat set of groundtracks with a 10-day repeat cycle.
In the domain studied here...
Patterns of beach erosion and accretion due to jetty construction
are examined for the coast of Oregon. All jetty systems are
included with the exception of those on the Columbia River, making a
total of nine systems.
All evidence indicates that these areas of the Oregon coast are
experiencing a...
Siletz Bay is a drowned river valley filled with Holocene alluvial
and estuarine sediments and is separated from the ocean by a sand
spit 3.8 km in length. Since the area was settled by white man in the
1890's, the bay has apparently experienced rapid siltation, due to
increased farming...
Two beaches with significant differences in grain size and thus in beach profile morphology and response to wave conditions were studied on the Oregon coast. Gleneden Beach, just south of Siletz Spit and Lincoln City, has a median grain size of 0.36 mm (medium sand) and a steep beach face...