Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment bed is responsible for the evolution of complex patterns in nearshore and beach morphology. Central to our understanding of this system is knowledge of the...
In the past, classification systems for the analysis of morphodynamic variability have been developed in an attempt to understand large scale coastal behavior. The motivation behind the creation of these classification systems has been to provide a framework of analysis, in order to understand large scale response to seasonal variability,...
Measurements of temperature and salinity in the upper 5 m of the ocean
along the equator showed cool fresh anomalies due to rain showers. The
measurements were made between 140 W and 110 W during April 1987, an
El Nino year. The eastern equatorial Pacific was characterized by weak winds...
The Cretaceous was a period of extreme climatic conditions accompanied
by major perturbations in ocean-atmosphere biogeochemical cycles. One of the
most intriguing features is the sporadic interruption of normal marine pelagic
sediment deposition by organic rich sediments deposited during oxygen-deficient
conditions (ocean anoxic events OAEs). A current model for the...