Theoretical breaking criteria for progressive surface gravity
waves are examined, and laboratory and field experiments concerned
with breaking waves are reviewed with respect to the testing of these
breaking criteria. The measurements of Komar and Simmons are
presented here for the first time. Only three theoretical breaking
criteria have been...
Siletz Bay is a drowned river valley filled with Holocene alluvial
and estuarine sediments and is separated from the ocean by a sand
spit 3.8 km in length. Since the area was settled by white man in the
1890's, the bay has apparently experienced rapid siltation, due to
increased farming...
Eight years (1994-2000) of data from the TOPEX/Poseidon satellite altimeter
are used to investigate the variability of the sea surface height and geostrophic
velocity of the California Current system. The TOPEX/Posiedon satellite measures
SSH along an exact-repeat set of groundtracks with a 10-day repeat cycle.
In the domain studied here...
Patterns of beach erosion and accretion due to jetty construction
are examined for the coast of Oregon. All jetty systems are
included with the exception of those on the Columbia River, making a
total of nine systems.
All evidence indicates that these areas of the Oregon coast are
experiencing a...
Concern regarding increased coastal erosion has heightened amid growing acceptance of global warming and associated sea-level rise. This study examines shoreline erosion in Flathead Lake, Montana due to five decades of artificially elevated lake levels. It provides a model to investigate coastal erosion associated with sea-level rise. The natural water...