Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment bed is responsible for the evolution of complex patterns in nearshore and beach morphology. Central to our understanding of this system is knowledge of the...
Waves are the primary input of energy in the nearshore region, and together with the currents forced through the transfer of momentum that occurs during the wave breaking process they are the principal mechanism for sediment transport in the nearshore. The basic physics of waves and currents are thought to...
The influence of mesoscale ocean eddies on near-surface ocean temperature, surface stress and phytoplankton communities is investigated by collocating numerous satellite measurements along with vertical profiles of oceanic temperature and salinity to the interiors of eddies identified and tracked in altimetric sea surface height maps.
The surface currents associated with...
We examine the interactions and feedbacks between bathymetry, waves, currents, and
sediment transport. The first two pro jects focus on the use of remote sensing techniques
to expand our knowledge of the nearshore. Due to the plethora of snap-shot data that is
available from satellites and their distribution via Google...
The mesoscale sea-surface circulation pattern within 400 km off Chile and between 18°S and 40°S latitude is described using chlorophyll and temperature images from the Coastal Zone Color Scanner NIMBUS-7 satellite. The data base is a set of four mosaics developed from band-3 (550 nm) images taken on June 4...
Physical-biological interactions in the Southern Ocean were investigated using remote sensing data from several different satellite sensors. Satellite sea surface temperature data were used to study the dynamics of the Antarctic Polar Front (PF). Satellite ocean color data were used to estimate surface chlorophyll concentrations and their relation to various...
Six years of Nimbus-7 Scanning Multichannel Microwave
Radiometer (SMMR) data from 1979 to 1984 are recalibrated
at the radiometric level. New statistical techniques are
developed to quantify the temporal and orbital data errors
and to generate numerical corrections for brightness temperatures
prior to estimation of geophysical parameters.
The foundations of...
Coastal-based high-frequency (HF) radar systems are an increasingly used tool for measuring surface currents in the coastal ocean. These systems provide a spatial and temporal resolution not achievable with other methods. Standard-range sites typically generate hourly maps of surface currents on a 2km grid extending approximately 50km from shore while...