Wave-induced circulation is the defining characteristic of the nearshore. Within this region, the constant feedback cycle between incoming waves, wave-generated currents, and the mobile sediment bed is responsible for the evolution of complex patterns in nearshore and beach morphology. Central to our understanding of this system is knowledge of the...
A field experiment designed to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence the patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore has been carried out. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations...
Beach response to overwash processes is a topic of significant importance. Two
particular aspects of this topic were chosen for detailed analysis: the distribution of
maximum wave runup elevations and the cross-beach celerity gradient of overwash bores
on natural beaches. Data were collected using both traditional nearshore instrumentation
and recently...
Using wave and wind data from nearby buoys and gauges, real time
kinematic global positioning system (RTK-GPS) and light detection and ranging
(lidar) topographic survey data, and a robust video record, we have quantified the
Large Scale Coastal Behavior (LSCB) of a dissipative end member beach in the
Pacific Northwest....
In the past, classification systems for the analysis of morphodynamic variability have been developed in an attempt to understand large scale coastal behavior. The motivation behind the creation of these classification systems has been to provide a framework of analysis, in order to understand large scale response to seasonal variability,...