Current projections of the oceanic response to anthropogenic climate forcings are uncertain. Two key sources of these uncertainties are (1) structural errors in current Earth system models and (2) imperfect knowledge of model parameters. Ocean tracer observations have the potential to reduce these uncertainties. Previous studies typically consider each tracer...
Current projections of the oceanic response to anthropogenic climate forcings are uncertain. Two key sources of these uncertainties are (1) structural errors in current Earth system models and (2) imperfect knowledge of model parameters. Ocean tracer observations have the potential to reduce these uncertainties. Previous studies typically consider each tracer...
The wave-induced velocity field in the nearshore is composed of contributions from incident wind waves (f > 0.05 Hz), surface infragravity waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl < (σ²/gβ) and shear waves (f < 0.05 Hz, lkl > σ²/gβ), where ƒ is the frequency, σ = 2πf, k is the...
Wind stress variability over the Benguela upwelling system is considered using 16 months (01 August 1999 to 29 November 2000) of satellite-derived QuikSCAT wind data. Variability is investigated using a type of artificial neural network, the self-organizing map (SOM), and a wavelet analysis. The SOM and wavelet analysis are applied...
Sequences of coastal zone color scanner (CZCS) images from the offshore region adjacent to Vancouver Island, Canada, have been analyzed to estimate the time rate of decorrelation of surface phytoplankton chlorophyll pigment patterns. In these high-latitude, high-pigment areas, CZCS-derived pigment estimates were lower than those obtained from ship samples by...
Measurements of tidal currents on the central Oregon shelf are available from several sources, including recent high frequency (HF) coastal radar and Acoustic Doppler Profiler (ADP) deployments, and historical current moorings. In this paper we use a generalized inverse (GI) approach to compare these data to, and then assimilate them...
Two years of satellite infrared imagery (1984–1986) are used to examine the sea surface temperature (SST) variability in the northern Gulf of California. Empirical orthogonal functions (EOFs) of the temporal and spatial SST variance for 20 monthly mean images show that the dominant SST patterns are generated by spatially varying...
Satellite infrared imagery and coastal meteorological data for March 1984 through February 1985 are used to estimate the net annual surface heat flux for the northern Gulf of California. The average annual surface heat flux for the area north of Guaymas and Santa Rosalia is estimated to be +74 W...
Optical oceanography models of attenuation and scattering properties often contain simple spectral relationships. Electromagnetic theory, however, predicts fluctuations in the spectra of the attenuation coefficients and scattering properties of substances at wavelengths near an absorption peak. We have modeled these effects for phytoplankton using homogeneous, two‐layered, and three‐layered sphere models...
A model is developed to calculate the upper ocean internal wave spectrum as modified by the surface boundary and mixed layer. The Garrett‐Munk spectrum is assumed to describe the deep ocean wave field. The main effect of the surface and mixed layer is to align the vertical structure of the...
Physical and biological fields in the coastal transition zone off northern California were measured during February, March, May and June 1987 in an extended alongshore region between 60 km and 150 km offshore. The spring transition, as seen in coastal sea level and winds, occurred in mid-March. Surface variability during...
Current meter moorings maintained over the Oregon continental shelf in 1973 and 1975 clearly show the difference between winter and spring oceanographic regimes and the rapid transition between the regimes. In winter the mean alongshore current is northward at all depths and strongest near shore; there is no mean vertical...
The wind speed and significant wave height (H1/3) dependencies of the sea state is in altimeter estimates of sea level, expressed in the form ∆hSSB=bH1/3, are examined from least squares analysis of 21 cycles of collinear TOPEX data. The bias coefficient b is found to increase in magnitude with increasing...
Satellite‐derived sea surface salinity (SSS) data from Aquarius and SMOS are used to study the shelf‐open ocean exchanges in the western South Atlantic near 35°S. Away from the tropics, these exchanges cause the largest SSS variability throughout the South Atlantic. The data reveal a well‐defined seasonal pattern of SSS during...
Turbulence controls the composition of river plumes through mixing and alters the plume's trajectory by diffusing its momentum. While believed to play a crucial role in decelerating river-source waters, the turbulence stress in a near-field river plume has not previously been observationally quantified. In this study, finely resolved density, velocity,...
A 2 week field experiment investigated the hydrodynamics of a strongly tidally forced tropical intertidal reef platform in the Kimberley region of northwestern Australia, where the spring tidal range exceeds 8 m. At this site, the flat and wide (∼1.4 km) reef platform is located slightly above mean sea level,...
A coupled biophysical model is used to examine the impact of the great Arctic cyclone
of early August 2012 on the marine planktonic ecosystem in the Pacific sector of the Arctic
Ocean (PSA). Model results indicate that the cyclone influences the marine planktonic
ecosystem by enhancing productivity on the shelves...
Hydrographic observations made with an undulating vehicle carrying a CTD and concurrent shipboard ADCP velocity observations over a 12‐day period are combined to investigate vertical mixing and cross‐frontal fluxes on the Northern Flank of Georges Bank. The CTD density time series is analyzed to detect the presence of vertical overturns,...
Topographically generated eddies and internal waves have traditionally been studied separately
even though bathymetry that creates both phenomena is abundant in coastal regions. Here a numerical
model is used to understand the dynamics of eddy and wave generation as tidal currents flow past
Three Tree Point, a 1 km long,...
Observations of vertical temperature microstructure at ocean station P during the mixed layer experiment (Mile) indicate that the shape of the high-frequency temperature gradient spectrum depends on the relative strengths of turbulence and stratification. For low Cox number ((dT/dz)²)/ (dT/dz)²• the linear range of the Batchelor spectrum is not well...
Two separate time series observations of light transmission in the bottom water on the Continental Rise off Nova Scotia show fluctuations of light transmission in a wide range, 0-50% transmission at λ = 660 nm. The range corresponds approximately to SPM concentrations of 12 mg/l to 150 μg/l. The former...
In the productive central-Oregon coastal upwelling environment, wind-driven upwelling, tides, and topographic effects vary across the shelf, setting the stage for varied biogeochemical responses to physical drivers. Current, temperature, salinity, and dissolved oxygen (DO) measurements from three moorings deployed during the upwelling seasons of 2009–2011 off the central-Oregon coast are...
Satellite thermal imagery and in situ biological and physical data are presented that describe the spatial variability of phytoplankton biomass and species composition in relation to the physical structure at the sea surface during persistent upwelling off northern California. Surface patterns in temperature, geostrophic velocity, chlorophyll, and particle size structure...
Bathymetry is a major factor in determining nearshore and surf zone wave transformation and
currents, yet is often poorly known. This can lead to inaccuracy in numerical model predictions. Here
bathymetry is estimated as an uncertain parameter in a data assimilation system, using the ensemble Kalman
filter (EnKF). The system...
We discuss connections between inner‐shelf and mid‐shelf circulation near Point Conception, California, as well as the wind forcing of inner‐shelf circulation. Point Conception marks the southern edge of a major upwelling zone that extends from Oregon to central California. The coastline makes a sharp eastward turn at Point Conception, and...
For 74 days during the spring and summer upwelling seasons of 1981 and 1982, in conjunction with the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment, profiles of upper ocean currents were collected in the waters over the shelf and slope off northern California using a shipboard Doppler acoustic log. These measurements provide detailed...
Time‐dependent buoyant plumes form at the outflow of tidally dominated estuaries. When estuary discharge velocity exceeds plume internal wave speed c, a sharp front forms at the plume’s leading edge that expands from the time‐dependent source. Using observations of the Columbia River tidal plume from multiple tidal cycles we characterize...
During the summers of 1987 and 1988, 77 near-surface satellite-tracked drifters were deployed in or near cold filaments near Point Arena, California (39ºN), and tracked for up to 6 months as part of the Coastal Transition Zone (CTZ) program. The drifters had large drogues centered at 15 m, and the...
A new planktonic ecosystem model was constructed for the Eastern Bering Sea based on observations from the 2007–2010 BEST/BSIERP (Bering Ecosystem Study/Bering Sea Integrated Ecosystem Research Program) field program. When run with forcing from a data-assimilative ice-ocean hindcast of 1971–2012, the model performs well against observations of spring bloom time...
Spectral attenuation and absorption coefficients of particulate matter and collocated hydrographic measurements were obtained in the Mid-Atlantic Bight during the fall of 1996 and the spring of 1997 as part of the Coastal Mixing and Optics experiment. Within the bottom boundary layer (BBL) the magnitude of the beam attenuation decreased...
A study of the freshwater discharge into the Gulf of Alaska (GOA) has been carried out. Using available streamgage data, regression equations were developed for monthly flows. These equations express discharge as a function of basin physical characteristics such as area, mean elevation, and land cover, and of basin meteorological...
Optical properties of dissolved (colored dissolved organic material (CDOM)) and particulate matter and hydrographic measurements were obtained at the Mid-Atlantic Bight during the fall of 1996 and the spring of 1997 as part of the Coastal Mixing and Optics experiment. To assess the temporal and spatial variability, time series were...
A three-dimensional sea ice model is presented with resolved snow thickness variations and melt ponds. The model calculates heating from solar radiative transfer and simulates the formation and movement of brine/melt water through the ice system. Initialization for the model is based on observations of snow topography made during the...
Coastal flood hazard zones and the design of coastal defenses are often devised using the maximum
recorded water level or a ‘‘design’’ event such as the 100 year return level, usually projected from
observed extremes. Despite technological advances driving more consistent instrumental records of waves
and water levels, the observational...
The present work characterizes the time-space scales of variability and forcing dependencies of a unique 26 year record of daily to hourly shoreline data from a steep beach at Duck, North Carolina. Shoreline positions over a 1500 m alongshore span were estimated using a new algorithm called ASLIM based on...
A new class of nearshore waves based on the shear instability of a steady longshore current is discussed. The dynamics depend on the conservation of potential vorticity but with the background vorticity field, traditionally the role of Coriolis in larger scale flows, supplied by the shear structure of the longshore...
Wave setup and swash statistics were calculated from 154 runup time series steep beach under incident waves varying from 0.4 to 4.0 m significant wave height. incident wave height, setup, swash height, and total runup (the sum of setup and were found to vary linearly with the surf zone similarity...
Temperature was observed in the upper 80 m by moored thermistor chains at three locations in Rockall Channel west of Scotland. Isotherms were interpolated, and a 1‐week period of exceptionally energetic tidal oscillations was analyzed. The moored array (horizontal separations ranging from 6 to 20 km) was used as an...
A pair of high-resolution oceanographic surveys in March and April 1995 revealed a large and rapid transition from late winter to spring conditions in the coastal zone off central and southern California. These data are unique in capturing the detailed three-dimensional physical structure of and biological response to the spring...
Satellite-derived pigment concentrations from the west coast time series (WCTS) are averaged into monthly mean fields over the California Current system (CCS) for the period July 1979 to June 1986. Errors caused by the scattering algorithm used in the WCTS are reduced by an empirical correction function, although winter values...
This study surveys and evaluates similarity theory for estimating the sea-surface drag coefficient with the bulk aerodynamic method. The most commonly used formulations of the aerodynamic roughness length, required by similarity theory, are examined using data sets from four different field programs. These relationships include the Charnock formulation and the...
This study examines the dependence of the computed drag coefficient on wind speed, stability, fetch, flux sampling problems, and method of calculation of the drag coefficient. The analysis is applied to data collected at a tower 2 km off the coast of Denmark during the Risø Air Sea Experiment (RASEX)....
A drifter equipped with bio-optical sensors and an automated water sampler was deployed in the California Current as part of the coastal transition zone program to study the biological, chemical, and physical dynamics of the meandering filaments. During deployments in 1987 and 1988, measurements were made of fluorescence, downwelling irradiance,...
We have applied a normalized difference algorithm to 8 day composite chlorophyll-a (CHL) and fluorescence line height (FLH) imagery obtained from the Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer aboard the Aqua spacecraft in order to detect and monitor phytoplankton blooms in the Oregon coastal region. The resulting bloom products, termed CHL[subscript rel]...
Nonlinear mesoscale eddies can influence biogeochemical cycles in the upper ocean through vertical and horizontal advection of nutrients and marine organisms. The relative importance of these two processes depends on the polarity of an eddy (cyclones versus anticyclones) and the initial biological conditions of the fluid trapped in the core...
Several aspects of feedback mechanisms associated with surf zone sandbar response have been characterized using bathymetric surveys, sampled approximately monthly over a 16-year period at the Army Corps of Engineers' Field Research Facility (North Carolina). The measured bathymetry was alongshore averaged and modeled by the superposition of two Gaussian-shaped sandbars...
Continuous records of upper water column (0–150 m) temperature profiles, spectral distribution of downwelling irradiance, and phytoplankton solar-induced fluorescence at 25 m depth were obtained during the inaugural deployment of the Hawaii Air-sea Logging Experiment, A Long-term Oligotrophic Habitat Assessment (HALE ALOHA) mooring, near the Hawaii Ocean Time-series (HOT) Station...
The optical intensity signals from surf zone waves in a laboratory flume are analyzed using several different phase‐averaging techniques, and a methodology is developed for estimating wave roller lengths and local wave dissipation. The intensity signals (i.e., phase‐averaged intensity profiles) of individual breaking waves are compared with the wave profiles...
Eddies can influence biogeochemical cycles through a variety of mechanisms, including the excitation of vertical velocities and the horizontal advection of nutrients and ecosystems, both around the eddy periphery by rotational currents and by the trapping of fluid and subsequent transport by the eddy. In this study, we present an...
We investigate the momentum balance in the surf zone, in a setting which is weakly varying in the alongshore direction. Our focus is on the role of nonlinear advective terms. Using numerical experiments, we find that advection tends to counteract alongshore variations in momentum flux, resulting in more uniform kinematics....
The network comprising 61 high-frequency radar systems along the U.S. West Coast (USWC) provides a unique, high resolution, and broad scale view of ocean surface circulation. Subinertial alongshore surface currents show poleward propagating signals with phase speeds of O(10) and O(100–300) km d⁻¹ that are consistent with historical in situ...
We use a 4-year time series of high-resolution coastal zone color scanner imagery to study mesoscale variability in phytoplankton pigment (as a surrogate for biomass) distributions off central California during the spring–summer upwelling season. We use empirical orthogonal functions to decompose the time series of spatial images into its dominant...
In June 1987 the geostropic flow in the coastal transition zone off northern California (between 50 and 150 km off the coast from Point Reyes to just north of Cape Mendocino) was dominated by a well-defined, southward-meandering current. Three vertical sections are presented that show the hydrographic structure of the...
Macronutrients persist in the surface layer of the equatorial Pacific Ocean because the production of phytoplankton is limited; the nature of this limitation has yet to be resolved. Measurements of photosynthesis as a function of irradiance (P-I) provide information on the control of primary productivity, a question of great biogeochemical...
The particle size distribution (PSD) is a critical aspect of the oceanic ecosystem. Local variability in the PSD can be indicative of shifts in microbial community structure and reveal patterns in cell growth and loss. The PSD also plays a central role in particle export by influencing settling speed. Satellite-based...
During the summer of 2012, we used laser diffractometry to investigate the temporal and vertical variability of the particle size spectrum (1.25–100 µm in equivalent diameter) in the euphotic zone of the North Pacific Subtropical Gyre. Particles measured with this optical method accounted for ∼40% of the particulate carbon stocks...
The relationships between beam attenuation, absorption, suspended particle concentration, size distribution and pigment content are examined for a region where the particle concentration and pigment maxima are widely separated. Mie scattering analyses are performed on this data to predict the profiles of backscattering. It was found that absorption and scattering...
The Zanzibar Channel lies between the mainland of Tanzania and Zanzibar Island in the tropical western Indian Ocean, is about 100 km long, 40 km wide, and 40 m deep, and is essential to local socioeconomic activities. This paper presents a model of the seasonal and tidal dynamics of the...
Since the early surveys carried out by the Eastern Tropical Pacific (EASTROPIC) and Scripps Tuna Oceanographic Research (STOR) projects in the tropical Pacific off Mexico, the northerly winds which blow over the Gulf of Tehuantepec were described as an Important factor controlling the dynamics of this coastal ocean. In January-February...
The floating ice shelf of Petermann glacier interacts directly with the ocean and is thought to lose at least 80% of its mass through basal melting. Based on three opportunistic ocean surveys in Petermann Fjord we describe the basic oceanography: the circulation at the fjord mouth, the hydrographic structure beneath...
A Lagrangian drifter was deployed in a cold filament off northern California as part of the Coastal Transition Zone program. The drifter was equipped with an optical package (consisting of a spectroradiometer, a fluorometer, and a beam transmissometer) suspended at 8.5-m depth and a water sampler suspended at 16.3-m depth....
Measurements of upper ocean shear made during the Mixed Layer Dynamics Experiment (MILDEX) provide evidence of large horizontal scale motion at near‐inertial frequency. The measurements consist of shipboard acoustic Doppler current profiles. Four large‐scale spatial surveys of 2–4 days duration were made by the R/V Wecoma as a set of...
High-resolution (km in space and hourly in time) surface currents observed by an array of high-frequency radars off Oregon are analyzed to quantify the decorrelation time and length scales of their near-inertial motions. The near-inertial surface currents are dominantly clockwise with amplitudes of 9-12 cm s⁻¹. However, they appear asymmetric...
A hydrodynamic model incorporating a self‐consistent treatment of ocean self‐attraction and loading (SAL), and a physically based parameterization of internal tide (IT) drag, is used to assess how accurately barotropic tides can be modeled without benefit of data, and to explore tidal energetics in the last glacial maximum (LGM). M2...
Analytical and numerical models are used to study the effects of a meridional ridge on the propagation of barotropic Rossby waves produced by distant wind stress forcing. The analytical model illustrates the qualitative aspects of the problem by solving a simplified form of the potential vorticity equation. The analytical results...
Near‐inertial motions were observed at all current meters in an array of five moorings spanning the continental margin off central Oregon during October 1977 to January 1978. All moorings were between 10 and 130 km from shore, in water depths between 100 m and 2500 m. Largest near‐inertial amplitudes (>30...
The atmospheric low-level coastal jet (LLCJ) in the Southeast Pacific (SEP) region is characterized as either a strong-forcing jet (colder and drier air) or weak-forcing jet (warm and moist) based on the location of the Southeast Pacific high-pressure system (SEPH). The sea-surface temperature (SST) changes corresponding to a particularly strong-forcing...
Time‐dependent, three‐dimensional, upwelling circulation on the continental shelf off the Oregon coast is studied using a primitive equation numerical model. A limited area domain with a high‐resolution curvilinear grid is utilized. The response of the coastal ocean to forcing by observed wind stress and heat flux during the summer 2001...
Two simplified ocean simulations are used to study circulation and transport within Nares Strait. The simulations are similar, except that one included a coupled sea ice model that effectively established a landfast ice cover throughout the simulation year. Comparison between the ocean-only and ocean-ice simulations reveals a systematic change in...
Shoreward propagating, mode 2 nonlinear waves appear sporadically in mooring records obtained off the coast of New Jersey in the summer of 2006. Individual mode 2 packets were tracked between two moorings separated by 1 km; however, packets could not be tracked between moorings separated by greater distances from one...
In July 1993 we collected hydrographic data and information on chlorophyll distribution on the continental shelf north of Cape Hatteras and across the shelf break at Cape Hatteras. The data show that a warm, transparent mixed layer lies over much colder, euphotic, chlorophyll-rich bottom water on the shelf. This layer...
The microwave backscatter properties of surf zone waves are analyzed using field observations.
By utilizing a preexisting, independent, water surface discrimination technique, the microwave returns were
extracted along individual waveforms and the data from shoaling (steepening) waves, surf zone breaking
waves, and remnant foam were separated and quantified. In addition,...
The location of the Antarctic Polar Front (PF) was mapped over a 7-year period (1987-1993) within images of satellite-deprived sea surface temperature. The mean path of the PF is strongly steered by the topographic features of the Southern Ocean. The topography places vorticity constraints on the dynamics of the PF...
A series of satellite sea surface temperature (SST) intercomparison workshops were conducted under NASA sponsorship at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory. Three different satellite data sets were compared with each other, with routinely collected ship data, and with climatology for the months of November 1979, December 1981, March 1982, and July...
The three-dimensional structure and the origin of mesoscale anticyclonic
intrathermocline eddies (ITEs) in the coastal transition zone (CTZ) off central Chile (31–41°S) were analyzed through the combination of data from oceanographic cruises and
satellite altimetry, and the application of an eddy-resolving primitive equation ocean model
coupled with a numerical experiment...
Long-term (>years) bathymetric data sets collected in six multiple near-shore sandbar systems were analyzed with complex empirical orthogonal function analysis to quantify intersite differences and similarities in cyclic offshore progressive bar behavior. The observations came from a 37-year annually sampled data set of four regions along the Dutch coast (spanning...
The method used to separate surface and internal tides ultimately defines properties such as internal‐tide generation and the depth structure of internal‐tide energy flux. Here, we provide a detailed analysis of several surface‐/internal‐tide decompositions over arbitrary topography. In all decompositions, surface‐tide velocity is expressed as the depth average of total...
The spectral composition of internal gravity waves under the Arctic pack ice during the Arctic Internal Wave Experiment (AIWEX) was found to be strikingly different from observations at lower latitudes. Time series of vertical displacement were inferred from horizontal and vertical arrays of temperature and conductivity sensors. Frequency spectra indicate...
The dissipation of internal wave energy in the turbulent boundary layer under pack ice is determined using a time‐varying boundary layer model with an eddy coefficient closure scheme. The magnitude of the eddy coefficient is determined by the ice drift velocity, which is assumed greater than the rms water velocity...
Observations of currents, hydrography, and turbulence provide unambiguous evidence for hydraulic control of flow over an isolated three-dimensional topographic feature on Oregon’s continental shelf. The flow becomes critical at the crest of the bank, forming a strong supercritical downslope flow in the lower layer. Farther downstream, internal hydraulic jumps form...
The Southeast Pacific, which encompasses the coasts of Peru and Chile, is one of the world's most productive regions resulting principally from the upwelling of subsurface nutrient-rich waters. Over the satellite altimetry era, there have been numerous evidence that surface mesoscale eddies play an important role in the offshore transport...
The impacts of North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) on Great Lakes ice cover were investigated using lake ice observations for winters 1963–2010 and National Centers for Environmental Prediction reanalysis data. It is found that both NAO and ENSO have impacts on Great Lakes ice cover. The...
Assessments of climate change over time scales that exceed the last 100 years require robust integration of high-quality instrument records with high-resolution paleoclimate proxy data. In this study, we show that the recent biogenic sediments accumulating in two temperate ice-free fjords in Southeast Alaska preserve evidence of North Pacific Ocean...
Vegetation can protect communities by reducing nearshore wave height and altering sediment transport processes. However, quantitative approaches for evaluating the coastal protection services, or benefits, supplied by vegetation to people in a wide range of coastal environments are lacking. To begin to fill this knowledge gap, we propose an integrated...
Measurements of cross-shore flow were made across the surf zone during a storm as a nearshore bar became better developed and migrated offshore. Measured infragravity band spectra were compared to synthetic spectra calculated numerically over the natural barred profile assuming a white run-up spectrum of leaky mode or high-mode edge...
The influence of varying horizontal and vertical stratification in the upper layer ( inline image m) associated with riverine waters and seasonal atmospheric fluxes on coastal near-inertial currents is investigated with remotely sensed and in situ observations of surface and subsurface currents and realistic numerical model outputs off the coast...
Basal melting of ice shelves around Antarctica contributes to formation of Antarctic Bottom Water and can affect global sea level by altering the offshore flow of grounded ice streams and glaciers. Tides influence ice shelf basal melt rate (w(b)) by contributing to ocean mixing and mean circulation as well as...
Conductivity‐temperature‐depth surveys during 1988 encountered strong baroclinic jets that were evident in acoustic Doppler current profiler and hydrographic data. During June and July 1988 a filament with high surface nitrate, high chlorophyll, abundant populations of neritic centric diatoms, and higher rates of primary production was evident perpendicular to the coast...
The formation mechanisms and pathways of intermediate water in the Southern Ocean are analyzed from output of a high-resolution ocean general circulation model. Deep winter mixed layer formation in the Southern Ocean is diagnosed from the model results and is found to be mostly consistent with observations. Diapycnal water mass...
urface wave transformation and the resulting nearshore circulation along a section of coast with strong alongshore bathymetric gradients outside the surf zone are modeled for a consecutive 4 week time period. The modeled hydrodynamics are compared to in situ measurements of waves and currents collected during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment...
A three‐dimensional primitive‐equation model for application to the nearshore surf zone has been developed. This model, an extension of the Princeton Ocean Model (POM), predicts the wave‐averaged circulation forced by breaking waves. All of the features of the original POM are retained in the extended model so that applications can...
This paper presents a comprehensive set of velocity and suspended sediment observations in the nearshore wave bottom boundary layer, collected during the Duck94 field experiment on the Outer Banks of the North Carolina coast. Cross-shore velocity measurements in the wave bottom boundary layer were made using five hot film anemometers,...
Several methods are developed for analyzing data containing a highly variable internal tide. In particular, the methods are aimed at the analysis of moored observations with relatively few measurements in the vertical. The analysis depends upon an "elliptical decomposition" that is a generalization of the familiar "rotary decomposition." The technique...
We present the evolution of oceanographic conditions off the western coast of South America between 1996 and 1999, including the cold periods of 1996 and 1998–1999 and the 1997–1998 El Niño, using satellite observations of sea level, winds, sea surface temperature (SST), and chlorophyll concentration. Following a period of cold...
Eddy‐correlation fluxes are compared to air‐sea fluxes predicted by a widely used bulk flux formulation without wave‐state effects. Systematic discrepancies are found. For example, the model approximately equates the roughness lengths for heat and moisture; however, the observed roughness length for heat (zoh) exceeds that for moisture (zoq) by an...
Directly wind-coherent near-inertial surface currents off the Oregon coast are investigated with a statistical parameterization of observations and outputs of a regional numerical ocean model and three one-dimensional analytical models including the slab layer, Ekman, and near-surface averaged Ekman models. The
transfer functions and response functions, statistically estimated from observed...
A formalism is presented for quantifying the sampling error of an arbitrary linear estimate of a time-averaged quantity constructed from a time series of irregularly spaced observations at a fixed location. The method is applicable to any irregularly sampled time series; it is applied here to satellite observations of chlorophyll...
Three upward looking acoustic Doppler current profilers (ADCP) were deployed beneath meteorological buoys in the Gulf of Tehuantepec, Mexico, during winter 1988-1989. Hourly averaged wind speed data from the buoys and from ship when in the vicinity were compared with surface acoustic backscatter intensity recorded at the ADCPs. The backscatter...
The Bowen ratio, the ratio of the turbulent surface fluxes of sensible (Hₛ) and latent (Hₗ) heat, Bo ≡ Hₛ/Hₗ, occurs throughout micrometeorology. It finds application in the Bowen ratio and energy budget method, where it provides both turbulent heat fluxes when only the available energy at the surface is...
Dynamical assimilation of surface elevation from tide gauges is investigated to estimate the bottom drag coefficient and surface stress as a first step in improving modeled tidal and wind-driven circulation in the Chesapeake Bay. A two-dimensional shallow water model and an adjoint variational method with a limited memory quasi-Newton optimization...