This is an author's peer-reviewed final manuscript, as accepted by the publisher. The published article is copyrighted by Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) and can be found at: https://doi.org/10.2112/SI65-235.1
The present work characterizes the time-space scales of variability and forcing dependencies of a unique 26 year record of daily to hourly shoreline data from a steep beach at Duck, North Carolina. Shoreline positions over a 1500 m alongshore span were estimated using a new algorithm called ASLIM based on...
Swash hydrodynamics were investigated on an intermediate beach using runup data obtained from video images. Under mild, near-constant, offshore wave conditions, the presence of a sandbar and the tidally controlled water depth over its crest determined whether most of the incoming waves broke before reaching the shoreline. This forced a...
A three-part algorithm is described and tested to provide robust bathymetry maps based solely on long time series observations of surface wave motions. The first phase consists of frequency-dependent characterization of the wave field in which dominant frequencies are estimated by Fourier transform while corresponding wave numbers are derived from...
A methodology is described for assimilating observations in a steady state twodimensional
horizontal (2‐DH) model of nearshore hydrodynamics (waves and currents),
using an ensemble‐based statistical estimator. In this application, we treat bathymetry as a
model parameter, which is subject to a specified prior uncertainty. The statistical estimator
uses state augmentation...
Optical remote sensing is used to measure flow patterns in the swash zone. Timestack images are analyzed to measure the asymmetry and the relative duration of the inflow into the swash zone. This varies significantly between individual swashes, contrary to the classical analytical swash model for runup induced by bores,...
A form of the linear, inviscid shallow water wave equation which includes alongshore uniform, but cross-shore variable, longshore currents and bathymetry is presented. This formulation provides a continuum between gravity waves (either leaky or edge waves) on a longshore current, and the recently discovered shear waves. In this paper we...
Synchronous and colocated optical and microwave
signals from waves in the surf zone are presented and analyzed.
The field data were collected using a high-resolution video system
and a calibrated horizontally polarized marine radar during the
decaying phase of a storm. The resulting changes in the received
signals from varying...
An exact integral solution for the moisture profile in growing fingers in sandy soil is derived from Richards' equation. The solution provides moisture content along a finger as a function of position and time and provides applicable results, including the calculation of the asymptotic matric potential of a growing finger...